Neil Porten takes to the hills to visit a gentrified part of town before returning harbourside to check out historic sites.
People come to Kobe to taste the famous marbled beef and soak in the waters at nearby Arima Onsen hot spring resort. I'm here because my ship has come in; the Costa neoRomantica berthed mid-afternoon and I've got about five hours to get a taste of this cosmopolitan city which has traded with the world since Japan opened itself up in the middle of the 19th century.
Kobe is defined by its port and the hills that hem it in on the northern shore of Osaka Bay. So I'm heading first to Kitano, a gentrified part of town on the slopes above the city before returning to the harbourside to check out historic sites and more recent developments.
This is a narrow city, so getting to the heights of Kitano and back to the attractions of the waterfront is a quick trip by taxi. With more time, you can take the City Loop bus, which takes about an hour to complete a circuit, taking in the main sights including the Sannomiya shopping district and Nankinmachi Chinatown.
Kitano perches on the hills above the port, a place where foreign merchants and diplomats built their mansions away from the bustle below. In the early evening the air is cool, clear and bright for a walk up steps and through small squares, where fountains and sculpted bronze jazz players catch the eye.