Kiwi fashion designer Emilia Wickstead was named today as the lead for the airline’s first uniform refresh in over a decade.
Video / Corey Fleming / Air New Zealand
On Monday, October 6, Air New Zealand announced Emilia Wickstead would design their next set of airline uniforms.
The London-based Kiwi fashion designer will create a series of outfits to replace Dame Trelise Cooper’s bold koru patterns, which took to the skies in 2011.
However, Cooper seemed delighted by the news.
Commenting on an announcement video Air New Zealand posted to Instagram, she said Wickstead was an excellent choice.
“Congratulations @emiliawickstead and @airnz - you couldn’t have chosen better🤍🤍🤍”, she wrote.
“Can’t wait to see what she creates,” one person wrote. “Congratulations, and looking forward to seeing what the new uniform designs are. I’m sure they will be a fabulous and represent Air New Zealand amazingly,” another commented.
Hannah Barrett also appeared to be a fan of Wickstead, commenting, “This is so cool”.
Viva’s Fashion Editor Dan Ahwa said considering how Air New Zealand uniforms represent Aotearoa on a global scale, Wickstead’s international reputation would be an advantage.
“While there were several great candidates who had pitched, the choice of Emilia is a significant one because of how much she champions New Zealand internationally - a strategic part from the national carrier,” he said.
Although it was “early days”, Ahwa said he was eager to see how the designer approaches colour and gender in the designs.
“I’m looking forward to seeing how Emilia will translate her brand of modern elegance into these highly visible uniforms - particularly what she does with menswear and how she will address staff who identify as non-binary,” he said.
On social media, many said that it would be difficult to improve upon the current designs by Cooper.
“Loved the old! Good luck with the new. Very exciting,” one person wrote. “The current uniform is a tough act to follow, good luck!” another added, while a third said, “I absolutely LOVE the current uniform - looking forward to what’s to come.”
However, the current designs weren’t without criticism when they were revealed, as some people took issue with the use (and in certain people’s opinion, misuse) of Māori symbols.
In 2010, Canterbury University Māori and Indigenous School head Rawiri Taonui said the design was disrespectful and showed a lack of understanding of the symbols.
“It’s obviously been drawn by someone who doesn’t appreciate the culture or understand the deeper symbolism,” he said, as the symbols had specific meanings so should not be mixed together.
Kiwis have already voiced similar concerns regarding Wickstead’s designs before a single detail has been revealed.
“So is she going to appropriate Māori designs in her designs, or is she going to create something original but still inspired by our heritage? Curious,” one person commented on Instagram.
Another suggested that if Air New Zealand truly wanted to honour te ao Māori culture in the designs, they should have chosen a different designer.
“Sorry, not wanting to take away from your experience and excitement for the job, but it should have gone to @kirinathan. Once again, the most appropriate person is passed over because they’re Māori,” they commented.
However, Wickstead told Herald Travel the design would be a “huge tribute to Māori culture”, but it had been a collaborative process with other individuals.
She could not yet disclose who she had collaborated with, but this could involve cultural advisers or Māori artists and creators.
Air NZ staff model Zambesi's uniforms at the launch in 2005. Photo / Greg Bowker.
Over the past 80 years, Air New Zealand has refreshed its staff’s wardrobe around once every decade. But a planned uniform makeover for 2021 was scrapped by pandemic cutbacks.
“Our next uniform has an 83-year legacy to live up to,” Geraghty told press at a reveal event.
“Our designer needs to create something that is unique and distinct. The uniform needs to be modern, yet timeless, elegant and contemporary.”
Work over the next year to finalise the uniform will have plenty of input from crew and ground staff. Wickstead’s successful pitch was approved by Air New Zealand pilots and crew, who were “the most important stakeholders”.
“Their feedback and insights were instrumental,” said Geraghty. “They are [people] who will create a uniform that will stand the test of time.”
