First up is a Riwaka institution: the seasonal Thomas Brothers shopfront. This orcharding family has been in the area for generations, growing apples, kiwifruit and cherries. It's the latter that is the main attraction when this stall kicks into action in the warmer months – along with its popular fresh-fruit ice cream counter. We can heartily endorse cherry and banana as a flavour combination.
Right next door, Ginger Dynamite operates out of a pair of bright-red shipping containers – one containing a coffee counter and the other acting as a wet-weather dining area decked out like the interior of a vintage Kiwi bach. The fare is simple but tasty: scones, meat pies, seafood chowder and decent coffee.
If you're a craft beer fan, distract the family with ice creams and head across the road to Hop Federation to stock up on the good stuff for your holiday. It might seem improbable that a settlement with fewer than 800 residents could support a microbrewery, but Riwaka is well on the radar for serious beer lovers. Hops have been grown here since the 1800s and the town has lent its name to its own cultivar, which has a cult following on the international brewing scene. Hop Federation's core range stretches to eight beers and they usually have a seasonal or experimental brew on the go, so ask for a sample before you commit to a 1.3-litre rigger. Otherwise, pick up a selection of cans to escort you through your Golden Bay stay.
If it's a blustery day and you're keen to hunker down in a proper sit-down café, continue along Main Road to Mrs Smith's Cafe & Vegetables. There's a pleasantly old-fashioned vibe to the place, right down to the ham-and-cheese toasties and spaghetti on toast.
Craft beer is also a feature of the refurbished Riwaka Hotel, a classic rural pub positioned around the next bend of the highway leading out of town. Although it can justifiably claim to having been founded in 1854, the building was rebuilt after a fire in 1906 and its hodgepodge of extensions don't necessarily scream "heritage". It does, however, have a cracking beer garden and an attractive main bar with lots of exposed brick and historical information on the walls. The menu is a step above regular pub grub, too, offering the likes of wagyu-beef burgers, wild venison striploin and vegan fajitas.
Around the next bend the highway crosses the little Riuwaka River (note: they fixed the spelling in 2014, for the river at least). Nestled here, right at the base of Tākaka Hill, you'll find Riwaka River Estate; drop in to taste their olive oil and Resurgence wines.
Just before you tackle Tākaka Hill, consider taking a 10-minute detour from the highway along Riwaka Valley Rd to visit the tranquil Riuwaka Resurgence, tucked within the fringes of the vast Kahurangi National Park. Here, a short track leads through lush native bush to the place where the Riuwaka River emerges from the limestone of Tākaka Hill into a deep crystalline pool surrounded by moss and ferns. This beautiful spot is a wāhi tapu which was used for cleansing rituals by Ngāti Rārua and Te Ātiawa. Pause here to soak up the peaceful vibes and settle your mind. You may well need a reserve of calm to deal with some of the drivers you're likely to encounter as you leave the flats of Riwaka for the bends and climbs of Tākaka Hill.
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