Horses rest in a field at the Raukokore church on the East Cape, near Te Kaha. Photo / Alan Gibson
It's a stronghold, but Elisabeth Easther finds it's also a great place for a summer holiday.
Where is it? In the eastern Bay of Plenty on SH35, 90 minutes from Whakatane.
Origin of name: The name Te Kaha means stronghold, and refers to the strength of local tribes who held off marauding war parties fighting for supremacy and land. The tribal name is Te Whanau a Apanui.
Population? 307; 85 per cent of Maori descent.
Perfect for? A relaxing seaside holiday.
Town mascot: Te ururoa - the hammerhead shark - a strong, quiet fighter.
Old news: Until the 1920s, Te Kaha was home to a whaling station; now it's one of the best spots in New Zealand to view migrating whales.
Famous locals: Willie Apiata (recipient of the VC) and Moana-Nui-a Kiwa Ngarimu who received the VC posthumously in October, 1943. Many Maori Battalion servicemen came from Te Kaha. Artist Cliff Whiting was born here.
Famous location: Parts of the movie Boy were shot in Waihau Bay just down the road.
Best website: tekahabeachresort.com.
Big business: Kiwifruit, commercial crayfishing and tourism keep things afloat, and back in the day the area was renowned for its kumara.
Source of pride: Aside from the huge sense of awhi (community spirit), the local kapa haka team have represented Aotearoa around the world at highflying events.
Town fiestas: The biggest gathering is on Anzac Day, although virtually every week there's a birthday, wedding or a tangi with all hands on deck always ready to help out. With 13 marae in a small region, there's always something going on round here.
In tents: You wouldn't want to rush through this area, so bring your tent and camp out for a spell, enjoy the beauty of this unspoiled paradise, not to mention the bountiful seafood.
Or: Stay at Te Kaha Homestead, the beach resort or the campground. Tui Lodge is also a cracker.
Kids love: All the beach activities - there are safe beaches all along the coast, many with small playgrounds and picnic areas.
Best playground: Maraetai Bay has a basketball court, swings and slides and with rock pools at one end there's heaps to keep kids busy.
Best walk: About 15 minutes beyond Te Kaha you'll find Whanarua Bay Waterfall. It's an easy, short walk following a creek through beautiful bush and past waterfalls, perfect for a cool secluded swim when the mercury soars.
Best view: There are many. Ten kilometres from Te Kaha on the Patiki side, you'll enjoy the Motu Bluffs and Whitianga Bay. There are heaps of places to stop and take photos. From the Maraenui Hill, 20 minutes the other way, you can look to Tauranga, Whale and White Islands, Mt Edgecombe and right back to Mt Maunganui. Heading towards the waterfalls you hug the coastline for about 40km and it's all gorgeous.
Best places to pull over: Try Whitianga Bay, a peninsula with heavenly views, or Omaio for its postcard charms.
Best swim: Maraetai Bay, aka Schoolhouse Bay, in the heart of Te Kaha, is one of safest, prettiest beaches. It's easy to launch a boat here, and there are picnic spaces and public toilets.
River deep: Two rivers run either side of Te Kaha. Both have refreshing swimming spots where kids jump off swings out of trees or off the bridges all summer long.
Best museum: Most of the local history is kept in the wonderful Whakatane and Opotiki museums for safekeeping. You can also go to the Te Kaha Beach Resort to look at amazing old photos of whalers, the old hotel and a few local legends, and to the Te Kaha RSA (6646 State Highway 35) for fascinating military memorabilia.
Nice arts: Te Kaha Craft Shop is a small studio in the heart of the town selling local arts and crafts as well as homemade jams, pickles and preserves.
Top shop: Te Kaha Beach Resort and the Holiday Park have general stores that sell all your basic needs. The nearest petrol is at Omaio.
Cream of the coffee: The campground and the resort do a decent brew as well as various types of food.
Hungry? The resort does sit-down meals with stunning views, seafood is a speciality. The campground does a mean burger.
Fish and chips, scenery and VC hero Willie Apiata, all at Te Kaha.
Wet your whistle: The pub burned down a few years ago. A new one went up in its place but the resort was later built on top of it. But you can easily get lucky and turn up on a night when locals are playing guitars, and you'll often get a sing-along at the Te Kaha Homestead Lodge, or see Paora and his whanau welcome visitors with waiata and poi.
Giddy-up: Twenty minutes' drive inland through bush, you'll find Maungaroa Horse Treks. Ring ahead - (07) 325-2727 - and make a booking for a full-day or half-day ride along rivers and to waterfalls.
Best adventure: Kayaking, diving, fishing, hunting and jet boating are among the pleasures to be found here.
Wildlife: The area is inhabited by crayfish, fur seals, little blue penguins, gannets and terns all fishing for food in the bay - sometimes the ocean lights up with fish and birdlife.
Whale of a time: This is thoroughfare for orca, with visitors enjoying birds' eye views of them chasing stingrays. Sometimes visitors run out in their pyjamas to see the whales in the early mornings. Pilot and southern right whales are also frequent visitors.
Safety warnings: Look out for kids on horses and drive slowly - in fact just stop the car and stay for a while, city life will go on without you.
Locals say: Nau mai haere mai ki Apanui.
Visitors say: Wow.
Kia ora to Paora O'Brien from Te Kaha Homestead for being so full of enthusiasm.
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