Eat in or takeaway, no trip to Mangonui would be complete without a visit to the town's beloved over-the-water fish shop. Photo / Kenny Rodger
This coastal town serves up more than scrummy fish and chips, writes Elisabeth Easther.
Where is it? In Doubtless Bay, in the Far North - 150km northwest of Whangarei or about fours hours' drive from Auckland, on a good day.
Origin of name: Maori for "big shark", in reference to a local taniwha.
Population: 1566 people live in the Mangonui-Taipa area.
Town slogan: Absolutely beachfront.
Town mascot: The aforementioned shark.
Pretty old: One of the earliest towns to be settled by Europeans, Mangonui used to be a whaling port, but now it's a quaint little tourist town.
Hive of activity: In the 19th century this place was booming as locals produced food for whalers, as well as flax and kauri. Pre-European arrival, there were more than 15 marae in the pretty, small area.
Famous locals: Ray Woolf bases himself up this way and Brooke Sabin, TV3's political reporter, grew up round these parts.
Best website: doubtlessbay.co.nz.
Big business: Forestry, fishing, farming and tourism.
Source of pride: You'll be hard pressed to find a more picturesque town no matter how far you travel.
Town fiestas: The Mangonui Waterfront Festival at the beginning of April has food, wine and art stalls, music, dancing, Tug-O-War and is good old-fashioned fun.
Here for a short time? Sample the town's world-famous fish and chips over the water or, if it's crowded, take your parcel of kai up to Rangikapiti Pa and admire the views.
Best reason to stop: It's beautiful and relaxing plus there's loads of great eating to be done.
A whale of a time: Visit Butler Point Whaling Museum - it's an appointment-only kind of place: the old homestead, the gardens and the museum's collection are fascinating. It's estimated more than 5000 ships came to Mangonui from America alone because the Bay of Islands was notoriously wild whereas Mangonui was more isolated so there was less danger of crew deserting.
Best place to take the kids: Fishing off the wharf can keep kids occupied for hours, and a visit to the pub to meet the resident sulphur-crested cockatoo is also recommended. And, of course, swimming at any of the nearby beaches up and down the coast.
Best playground: None in Mangonui but drive a little further to Coopers Beach and you'll find an excellent place to swing and slide.
Best walk: The Mangonui Heritage Trail is 3km of fascinating facts from the past. Or trot up to the pa or just stroll around the town and along to Mill Bay.
Best view: Go up Rangikapiti Pa, and be sure to take your camera.
Best swim: Mangonui isn't ideal for swimming, although if you take your stand-up paddleboard or kayak you'll find plenty to amuse you. The wider area is crammed with fab beaches so when it gets too hot head to Coopers Beach, Cable Bay or Taipa.
Kayaking towards Mangonui Harbour Heads. Photo / The Northland Age
Best museum: Butler Point Whaling Museum is amazing, but phone ahead before you visit as it's open by appointment only.
Nice arts: The community art gallery opposite the Four Square is filled with lovely stuff from local crafts people. A bit further afield, The Earth House, out in Peria, is taking off. They serve delicious food and if you want some, you offer how much you think it is worth. Striking furniture, art and pottery-ceramics available in the gallery.
Best shop: The Four Square over the water has everything you might need for your holiday; Flax Bush is great for gifts and the like.
Tops for coffee: Go to 1904 Cafe and soak up the sun while watching the world go by, or try Little Kitchen or the ever-popular Waterfront Cafe.
Best bakery: 1904 Cafe bakes its own bread as does Little Kitchen and there's a bakery at Taipa, too.
Best food: The Old Oak Tavern serves good Indian food, there's a Thai restaurant plus The Waterfront and 1904 Cafe - it sounds cliched, but everywhere in Mangonui the food is good.
Stalls line Mangonui's Waterfront Road during the annual waterfront festival. Photo / Peter de Graaf
Impossible: You can't go to Mangonui without having fish and chips at the emporium perched over the water.
Wet your whistle: You could spend all day at the Waterfront Cafe and the pub is an excellent watering hole, too ... it hasn't changed much over the years.
Best adventures: Boat charters and fishing are popular up this way.
Fish tales: Fish off the Mangonui wharf: you'll be surprised how big some of the fish are. If you're not lucky, the incoming fishing boats might flick you a cheapie.
Wildlife: Orcas come into the bay chasing the stingray and dolphins come right into the harbour, too. Birdlife is flourishing, with tui, kereru, wading birds, godwits, shining cuckoos, and spoonbills. Kiwi also live here.
Safety warnings: Just don't be stupid.
Locals say: Living here makes you whole.
Visitors say: Leaving will break your heart.
Thanks to Terri for spilling the beans.
Desktop readers: Click the map below to access our full library of kia ora columns.
Mobile readers: Tap the links below to access our full library of kia ora columns.
read articles
read articles
When there's nothing as far as the eye can see, you may appreciate the company.