Kawhia Wharf is one of the area's landmarks. Photo / Jason Dorday
Kawhia Wharf is one of the area's landmarks. Photo / Jason Dorday
Lovely harbour has a rich history and top fish and chips, writes Elisabeth Easther.
209km from Auckland and 72km from Waitomo, sits the historic King Country harbour town of Kawhia.
Origin of name: To support or help, from the Maori word "awhi", named by the earliest waka crew that entered the harbour and saw it as a place of abundance.
Population: There are probably only about 450 permanent residents, with a major population explosion during the high season when the number increases by thousands.
Old news: Settled 750 years ago when the first Tainui waka arrived, Kawhia and the surrounding districts have been hotly fought over - today, however, it's all about peace and relaxation.
Even older news: A giant penguin fossil was found in Kawhia by a group of children. Believed to be 40 million years old, this giant penguin would have been about 1.5m tall and weighed about 100kg.
Famous locals: Te Rauparaha - considered the Napoleon of the Maori world - was the paramount chief of Ngati Toa, before the tribe was ousted by Maniapoto and other inland tribes, including Ngati Mahuta, Ngati Hikairo, and Ngati Te Wehi. Sir James McNeish (novelist, playwright and biographer) spent some time living and working at Te Maika, a remote peninsula across from the harbour entrance and the area features prominently in his memoir.
Big business: There is no major industry here aside from the looming threat of mining and most locals are against that. There are billions of dollars worth of black sand on the shores between Kawhia and Aotea - but mining it would ruin an eco wonderland.
Mostly people just: Hang out and have fun.
Source of pride: It's all so quaint and delicious, and the history, Maori and European, is pretty rich if you fancy digging into it.
Town fiestas: The Kahwia Regatta, held every New Year's Day, is a whale boat racer's dream come true, while the traditional Maori Kai Festival attracts thousands of discerning food lovers every February over Waitangi weekend.
Here for a short time: Stop at Ocean Beach; some say it's the most stunning beach in all of New Zealand and you simply have to try the Te Puia natural hot pools.
Best reason to stop: The scenery, good old-fashioned nature and the fish and chips are sublime.
Best place to take kids: Aside from letting them run wild, take them down to the wharf for a frolic, for a soak in the hot pools or take them on a horse trek.
Best playground: There's a playground in the village with swings, slides and a skateboard ramp; you can't miss it. Eel feeding at El Dorado is also pretty wicked, look for the signs on the main road about 2km before the village.
Best walk: Take a stroll along the beach or enjoy an historic walk. Local man Josh takes visitors on a one-three-hour History Hikoi. For just $20 a person, the tour includes a visit to the beach, to the burial place of the Tainui waka, to the Maketu Marae, and the famous pohutukawa tree, "Tangi te Korowhiti", and is full of fascinating tales from the past.
Best view: Feast your eyes on the village, beach and wharf, it's just views, views, views as far as the eye can see.
Best place to pull over: Turn off to Aotea Harbour, one of the prettiest harbours in the world - it's smaller than Kawhia, with only 50 or so permanent residents and a tiny village.
Best swims: Try bombing off the wharf or go to Ocean Beach for an invigorating dip. If it's seclusion you're after, go down the coast a wee while to Kiritehere.
Do do:Kawhia Harbour Cruises take people on 2-3 hour cruises to various beauty spots aboard the Kotuku ferry - pack a picnic and in the warmer months take your togs.
Portrait of the Ngati Toa warrior Te Rauparaha by John Alexander Gilfillan. Photo / Alexander Turnbull Library
Best museum: Kawhia Museum, 50m from the wharf has lots of taonga (treasures), and whaleboats, too. Run by volunteers, a small donation will get you in.
Nice arts: Go to Kawhia Art Gallery for impressive photos and paintings. Kawhia Arts and Crafts is also well worth a visit.
Top shops: There's a cute little general store and a garage and a few food places but consumerism hasn't really caught on here.
Cream of the coffee: Annie's Restaurant is like being in a private home, only with superb coffee and tasty affordable food.
Best food: Try Kawhia's famous fish and chips down by the wharf, or the aforementioned Annie's or the Rusty Snapper where seafood, burgers and service also deserve high praise. For a small town they have a super selection of dining options.
Wet your whistle: The Blue Chook is a quaint little bar. On Fridays, local musicians bring the place to life - plus there's great food here, too. The Kawhia Hotel is also ideal for a cold beer on a hot day.
Best mountain biking: A trail is being set up through the forests and is expected to be open by summer, but you'll need to bring your own bike as no one rents them out. Yet.
Best adventures: Take a ride with Ocean Beach Horse Treks, go on a fishing charter or rent a canoe from the motel.
Best kept secret: Te Puia Natural Hot Pools expose themselves at low tide on Ocean Beach, head down with a shovel about two hours before low tide and excavate yourself into a therapeutic soak.
Wildlife: If you'd visited a few hundred years ago you'd have seen moa but today the bird life is still pretty lively. Gannet Island, a rocky little island, one of New Zealand's youngest volcanoes, is home to about two thirds of our gannets. You could also see dolphins, seals and albatrosses, while closer to shore you might spy orcas chasing stingrays. Wild deer and pigs live up in the hills but you won't spot them in the village, which is probably just as well.
Safety warnings: Use common sense on the sea and take special care if crossing the bar into the Tasman Sea.
Thanks to Bevan for sharing. Born and bred in Kawhia, his whanau have been living in the area for more than 750 years.
