Kia ora: Hanmer Springs

Herald photographer Greg Bowker near Molesworth Station en route to Hanmer Springs. Photo / Greg Bowker

Hanmer Springs offers more than just hot pools, learns Elisabeth Easther.

Origin of name: Named in the 1850s after a station owner called Thomas Hanmer.

Population: 840.

Town slogan: New Zealand's Alpine Spa Village.

Town icon: Those splendiferous pools.

Old news: The Queen Mary Hospital was built in 1897 and has variously been a sanitorium, a sanctuary for soldiers suffering after battle, a place to treat women with "nervous disorders" and, most famously, a rehabilitation centre for alcoholics and drug addicts.

Famous locals: Mountaineer and winemaker Mark Inglis is from around here and Sir Richard Hadlee has a holiday home here and is a member of the golf club.

Best website: hanmersprings.co.nz.

Big business: Tourism and spa therapies - more than a dozen people in the town offer treatments.

An opportunity: If anyone wants to open a cinema they'd be welcome. Or an internationally renowned golf course.

Source of pride: The area's achingly beautiful scenery.

Town fiestas: The annual Christmas Parade draws the crowds, ditto Stars in your Eyes, a fundraising event where the locals take the stage.

Here for a short time: Aside from soaking in the pools, you could walk up Conical Hill, play a round of mini golf or hire a Village Cruiser (four-wheel bikes that take up to six people) and pedal around the town.

Best reason to stop: Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa welcome more than 400,000 visitors each year from Canterbury alone. The pools are a winner with bathers of all ages, thanks to the plentiful landscaped pools in a variety of temperatures and shapes, and oh, those mountain views. Plus there are water slides, a fresh water pool and a lazy river so the kids never get bored, and if you're an adult travelling without nippers, there are adults-only pools too.

Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. Photo / Supplied

Get this: The water in the pools is thought to have fallen more than 170 years ago, and those ancient concentrated minerals are said to be very good for you.

Best park: Hanmer Forest is full of amazing walking tracks, with more than 50km of networks, from dead flat to super steep all the way up to the top of Mt Isobel - mountain bikers, from experts to novices, are also welcome. Or take a turn around Brooke Dawson Park, a charming picnic area.

Best playground: Chisholm Park Playground is all bright colours, swings and slides, plus there's a barbecue and a pond full of friendly ducks for feeding.

Sweet as: There are two fudge shops and a confectionery shop in town.

Best walk: Make sure you trot up Conical Hill, this walk is smack bang at the end of the main street and zigs and zags its way up to the top of the hill. Families can knock it off in 15-20 minutes, no sweat.

Best view: Mt Isobel is beautiful - as you look out from the top of Conical Hill, you'll gaze across the road that goes to Lewis Pass, along the river and down to southern part of Hanmer Basin - the entire view is framed by mountains. If you look closely you'll see thrill seekers bungy jumping, jet boating and four-wheel driving

Best place to pull over: Champagne Flat - stop at the historic ferry bridge and look west towards the Waiau River - and be sure to have your camera handy.

Best swims: Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa, of course. Or in summer you can take a dip in the river, head towards Molesworth and St James Stations - locals call this going "over the back".

Thrillseekers Canyon Bungy over the Waiau River near Hanmer Springs. Photo / Supplied

Best museum: There isn't one, but hopefully some of the buildings on the Queen Mary Hospital site will be turned over to the preservation of local heritage.

Nice arts: The local arts council has an area in the library that's dedicated to exhibitions. Or stop in at Majuba Gallery where you'll find a wide range of works for sale from landscapes to abstracts and everything else in between. And if you visit during summer, there's a craft market every Saturday morning on the village green.

Top shops: After the Canterbury earthquakes, Hanmer Springs became a retreat for the afflicted and, with that influx, came a handful of new shops including a plethora of women's fashion emporiums and a great shoe shop.

Cream of the coffee: Power House, built in an old power substation, is home to head chef Mary, who has quite the cult following. Aside from fabulous coffee they also do pies, an outstanding seafood chowder and a good range of gluten-free food.

Best food: Malabar is a very popular Asian-influenced restaurant. No31 is also highly regarded with the hot sticky liquorice pudding earning rave reviews.

Wet your whistle: Drop into the local Monteith's Pub and rub up against the locals - it's just been redeveloped.

Best cycling: The St James Cycleway is split into two parts, the loop track has an easy gradient and isn't too challenging then there's the main cycleway, which is much more challenging, so you need to be very fit and capable. There are great multi-day rides to be had up the Awatere Valley, on the way to Molesworth.

And remember: People visit Hanmer Springs for peace and tranquillity.

Wildlife: There's plenty of birdlife, so bring your ornithological field guide and a pair of binoculars if you're that way inclined.

Safety warning: Prepare for every kind of weather.

Locals say: Dulce far niente.

Visitors say: You what?

Locals say: It's Latin for "how sweet it is to do nothing".

Visitors say: Ain't that the truth?

Thanks to Kerry, Graeme, Chris, Nadine and Chantelle.