What do overseas visitors really think of New Zealand and Auckland? Photo / Getty Images
What do overseas visitors really think of New Zealand and Auckland? Photo / Getty Images
In the first of our series detailing NZ from a foreigner’s perspective, US-based travel writer Ashley Ellington Brown arrives in Auckland. But does our largest city leave a good impression?
I was thrilled to finally realise my dream of visiting Aotearoa New Zealand. I chose itfor my first solo trip abroad due to its safety and reputation for hospitality—and got to experience that legendary friendliness before I even boarded my plane from Australia.
The airline I was on switched me to Air New Zealand without notice, but the Air NZ staff figured it out and were extremely patient and kind (which is increasingly rare in United States airports).
The flight was comfortable, and I easily navigated through customs and got the SuperShuttle to my hotel. Tired from waking early, I went to the hotel restaurant for dinner and received the first of multiple happy surprises.
I’d expected food here to be delicious but wasn’t prepared for it to be so good at every level. In the US, food quality is often tied to price and setting. But here, practically every meal was excellent, from inexpensive toasties to sublime seafood.
With just three days in Auckland, I tried to fit in as much as I could, but only scratched the surface. The first day I explored on foot and learned that not only do Kiwis drive on the wrong side of the street, you also walk on the wrong side of the sidewalk!
Initially, I was disappointed by Auckland’s waterfront, as I hadn’t realised it was such an active port. However, I found the area more and more attractive as I walked along, with the mix of historic and modern architecture and the extraordinary green hue of the water.
At lunch, I received more lovely hospitality; it was crowded but the hostess gave me one of the best seats — a corner banquette with a view — and the waiter was attentive. (In the US, solo diners are generally given the worst seats and service).
I also discovered another difference: paying up front without a bill. Impressed by the level of trust this implied (does anyone walk out without paying?), I loved how it gave me control over when I left. (At most US restaurants you must wait for the server to bring a bill before you can pay and leave.)
On the second day my planned tour of the Waitakere Ranges was cancelled due to bad weather. Despite the high wind, rain, and cold, I decided to visit the next sites on my list, the Domain and Maungawhau/Mount Eden. (I hear you snickering).
A beautiful view from the new boardwalk at Mount Eden. Photo / Alex Burton
I started at the Wintergarden’s stunning glass pavilions. As I soaked in the beauty of the exotic, brilliantly coloured blooms, the sun came out. I inhaled the wisteria in the serene courtyard, then was excited to see my first koru in the fernery. After wandering for a bit, I had lunch at the charming Wintergarden Cafe.
Next, I headed off in an Uber to Mt Eden, although the rain and wind had picked up. The driver was concerned; I could tell he wanted to advise me against going, but he settled for telling me to be careful.
I was determined, however. Swaddled in my jacket, hat, gloves, and rain poncho, I slowly made the steep climb. When I finally reached the summit (soaked and panting), I was astounded at the crater’s size and the incredible views. I was congratulating myself on braving the elements when a runner — in shorts and a T-shirt — blew by me.
Then the wind and rain intensified. Blinded by the poncho whipping around my head, I cautiously made it down the hill and stumbled into the cafe to revive myself with hot tea and a biscuit. Then I browsed the fascinating historical display, marvelling at how many volcanoes/maunga there were and learning about local Māori history.
Sunday was gloriously sunny — perfect for Waiheke Island. I found the ferry easily and nabbed a seat at the back, taking a million pictures of the astonishingly blue-green water.
After arriving at the beautiful harbour, I met Waiheke Wine Tours for an extremely fun and informative trip to Cable Bay, Stonyridge, and Mudbrick vineyards with a stop at Batch Winery for a superb lunch paired with fabulous wine and breathtaking vistas.
Waiheke Wine Tours organise fun and informative trips to Cable Bay Vineyard and beyond. Photo / Jason Dorday
I was amazed at how large Waiheke was and enjoyed hearing about life there from our driver. It struck me as the perfect place for a leisurely honeymoon or romantic weekend. The scenery was gorgeous and the views from the wineries were so bucolic and peaceful; I could have spent days lounging on the outdoor patios.
I wasn’t sure what to expect from the wine, but I was blown away, especially by the Syrahs. I ended up buying four bottles to take home despite my luggage already being overweight. (A wise Kiwi in my group advised me to buy another suitcase, so I did!)
On Monday I boarded an InterCity bus to my next destination: Rotorua. Stay tuned!...
