The Hauraki Rail Trail runs alongside the stunning Ohinemuri River.
The Hauraki Rail Trail runs alongside the stunning Ohinemuri River.
Next time you pass through Karangahake, trek the Hauraki Rail Trail or visit a working farm, writes Sarah Lawrence
They say it's not just about the destination, it's the journey. I've travelled through the stunning Karangahake Gorge on holidays to the Coromandel more times than I can count. It's an experience to drive alongside the rolling waters of the Ohinemuri River, surrounded by lush carpets of greenery creeping up sheer rock faces. Today Karangahake becomes the destination.
Before we hit the gorge, we stop at Bullswool Farm & Nature Park, a working farm in the hills just minutes from Karangahake. Owners Tony Howse and Sue Austen have put their heart and soul into making the park a unique experience. As we head up the drive, we're greeted by a welcoming committee of a foal and her mum.
The farm boasts goats, alpacas, deer, sheep, kune kune, donkeys, cows and the cutest miniature horses, all grazing happily in easily accessible paddocks. All the animals can be hand fed, and tubs of food are in easy supply. It's a fantastic opportunity for kids who aren't used to getting up close and personal with anything other than the family pet.
Tony emerges from his workshop to greet us and we learn this farm is his passion and his pride and joy. He speaks fondly about his surrounding menagerie and is oozing with history about the area. He has also started working on an on-site museum to honour the gold miners who scaled the hills and sometimes even heads into the hills to dabble in a little gold panning, just as his predecessors did.
Tony's workshop houses a collection of ancient kauri pieces he has been accumulating for years. He turns these wooden treasures into stunning works of art. and has a gallery in Whangamata from where his pieces are sold to England and Germany.
The Bistro at the Falls Retreat is a perfect spot for lunch or dinner.
As we tour the farm, we soon see it's not just the animals providing the entertainment. There's a giant snakes-and-ladders game, dress-up scarecrows and a life-sized wooden drum kit for the kids (or parents) to re-enact their favourite rock song, all crafted by Tony, of course. Just above the emus' paddock is a mini BMX track complete with strider bikes.
Tony and Sue believe in giving back to the community and have worked hard to create a nature reserve next to the farm, with a well-maintained walking track among native forest. Native birds have begun to inhabit the forest and along with tui and wood pigeons, Tony tells me he saw his first kaka that morning. They also work closely with schools as far away as Auckland, which each have dedicated native plantings throughout the forest.
Schoolchildren visit every year to see how their plantings have flourished. As a result of the initiative, the Bullswool Farm's Bush Reserve was a winner in the environmental category in the Pride of New Zealand Awards last year.
Bullswool Farm and Nature Park.
We bid farewell to our farmyard friends and head down the Karangahake Gorge to spend the afternoon cycling part of the Hauraki Rail Trail. The entire trail spans 82km, from Thames to Te Aroha, including the trail from Paeroa to Waikino. We've hired our bikes from the Waikino Station Cafe and head off along the water's edge towards Karangahake. It's said the Hauraki Rail Trail is one of the easiest riding trails in New Zealand. Flat and easily accessible, the track is an easy ride for all ages.
There's lots to explore along the trail, including the Victoria Battery, the country's largest producer of gold in the early 1900s. The battery's relics still line the cycle track and serve as mementoes of the thriving industry that once operated there. A mining museum is close by and guided tours operate where visitors can view the underground roasting ore kilns. Today, we stay above ground as we head along the cycle track towards Owharoa Falls.
Located about 2km along the track from Waikino, the falls are a must-see. The roar of the staircased waterfall greets us as we stop to take in its splendour. It has all the makings of a perfect picnic spot, but we decide to head over the road to the Bistro at the Falls Retreat instead - a well-timed decision given that rain is starting to fall. Stepping into the bistro, we instantly feel the warmth, not only from the friendly staff, but from the bustling kitchen which can be viewed from our table.
The walkway above the Waitawheta River.
The impressive menu is evidence of its popularity, and after the rain passes, we finish lunch and hop back on the bikes and head towards the Karangahake rail tunnel.
The tunnel is 1.1km in length and although soft glowing lights line the ceiling, a torch would be handy for the dark spots. Throughout the tunnel, the sound of footsteps and voices from other visitors bounce off the walls.
Among it all, I notice the eerie undertones of someone humming a melody, which slowly creeps closer. Feeling a little spooked, my mind starts racing with ghosts of gold diggers past and I'm quite relieved to see daylight again.
As we finish our afternoon, the mist left from the passing rain has lifted and the sun is finally shining. But it doesn't matter what the weather is doing here. The journey through the gorge is beautiful regardless.
The writer stayed courtesy of Destination Coromandel and operators.
