The outdoor onset at Hotel Iya Onsen. Photo / AAP
Off the main tourist routes in Japan there are other wild and peaceful worlds to explore, writes Belinda Merhab.
'Get down! Get down! Get down!"
Someone pulls me down into the hull of the raft just as my brain registers the message.
The next moments are a blur. I struggle to take a breath as wave after wave of white water crashes over my head.
My paddle goes flying into the river as I grip the sides of the raft, bracing for capsize.
And then, just like that, it's over. The rapid is behind us and the clear turquoise waters have returned as we calmly cruise through the misty gorges of the Iya Valley.
Iya is nestled in the heart of Japan's Shikoku island, the smallest of the country's four major islands, tucked just below the mainland of Honshu.
Although Japan is one of the most popular tourist destinations on Earth, many travellers never veer very far from the well-worn paths of Toyko and Kyoto. Many tourists have never even heard of Shikoku. But this island, known for its natural beauty and famous Buddhist pilgrimage, is well worth the detour. Here are some places to check out:
Whether you're looking for luxury and rejuvenation or thrills and spills, you'll find it at Iya.
And although this tiny, remote village is tucked away in the mountains, it's still relatively easy to get around by public transport.
Iya's biggest claim to fame is its historic suspension bridges made of vines, which you can walk across as the river gushes below (they're reinforced with man-made materials).
The Yoshino River is also famous for its canyoning and whitewater rafting.
The jewel in Iya's crown is its namesake hotel, Iya Onsen, which sits on the edge of a mountain with views across the valley.
Besides the luxurious rooms and the decadent kaiseki dinner - course after course of dishes too pretty to eat but too delicious not to - the hotel's biggest drawcard is its outdoor onsen (Japanese hot spring).
It can be accessed only by the hotel's private cable car, which descends 170 metres into the valley to steaming baths that overlook the river and the mountains. Go at night for a bath under the stars.
This small port city, famous for its udon noodles, is a great jumping-off point for exploring Shikoku but it's a worthwhile destination in its own right.
The main sight is Ritsurin-koen, considered one of Japan's most beautiful gardens and said to have taken 100 years to complete.
You can easily spend a couple of hours exploring the ponds and bridges and perfectly-manicured trees.
Not far from the park is Yashima plateau, with great views of the islands dotted around the Seto Inland Sea. There you'll find stands selling kawarake, palm-sized plaster discs.
The idea is to throw them off the plateau as far as you can to rid yourself of bad luck, a tradition that dates back to a bloody 12th-century battle there when the victorious soldiers were said to have thrown their straw hats.
"Throw it far far away, you feel refreshed," the signs say.
Yashima is also home to one of the 88 temples on the island's famous pilgrimage and is one of the most convenient ways to get a quick taste if you're not keen for the full 1400km trek.
You'll likely see many henro (pilgrims) with their walking sticks, white clothing and conical straw hats, following in the footsteps of Kobo Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism, who was born on Shikoku in the 8th century.
Often referred to as "art island", Naoshima is one of the tiny tranquil islands of the Seto Inland Sea, famous for its giant yellow and red pumpkin sculptures by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.
It's basically a playground for adults, with quirky, interactive outdoor art installations set against dazzling panoramic ocean views - a fun day-trip even for those not big on art and it is easily accessible by ferry from Takamatsu.
For those who take their art seriously, there's also world-class galleries and museums.
CHECKLIST
Getting there
Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Tokyo, with one-way Economy Class fares from $789.
Shikoku is accessible by air and ferry but rail (from Okayama on the mainland to Takamatsu) is a convenient, cheap option if you've got a Japan Rail pass. Iya Valley is also accessible by train.
The JR pass gets travellers unlimited trips on JR services but you need to buy it before you get to Japan.
Staying there
Hotel Iya Onsen can book out months in advance so plan ahead. Basic rooms start from around NZ$558, including access to the onsen and breakfast and dinner. If it's out of your price range, you can pay just to use the onsen, but a stay here is worth it.
Those using Takamatsu as a base will find accommodation for all budgets.
Playing there
For rafting and canyoning in Iya Valley, the excellent team at Happy Raft run by Australian Mark Treston will look after you. Rafting starts at 5500 yen ($A62) for a half-day, which includes all the equipment you'll need, and beginners are welcome.
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When there's nothing as far as the eye can see, you may appreciate the company.