The best feature of a room at Club Med Tomamu is a locker at the edge of the resort for ski or snowboard gear. Meaning from boots on, to the first chair lift, is all of about 50m.
Make that 100m and you're on the Gondola, right to the top for breath-taking sights and fresh tracks on the hill. And get this; the lockers are like mini dry-room cupboards. Wet gear hung on the handy hooks at night is about dry when you're racing to be out the door in the morning.
Kirin-no Yu hot pools neighbour the resort and free entry is included in most Club Med packages. If it's snowing, you're in for a real treat as the falling snowflakes will combine with rising steam, melting seconds before touching your bare skin. The traditional nature of the baths means you wash before entering and bathing suits aren't allowed. The purpose of the experience is total cleansing and the Kirin-no Yu baths include a relaxation space with heated aroma oils extracted from local trees, plus a sauna.
3 Ice village ice cocktails
Entry to the village is by ice slide, winding around the side of an ice rink. Skates can be hired if you're up to it. But the main attraction is a cathedral built entirely out of frozen water, which has been host to several weddings. And an ice 'hotel room' — with an icy bed covered in animal hides. Several of the surrounding igloos are set up with all-ice bar leaners or ice seats with sheep or elk-skin toppers too, and the main bar itself has ice shelves to hold the bottles of everyone's favourite drops. The cocktails themselves are served in glasses made entirely of ice — they give you a straw — and as I learned as a result of a dare from my wonderful friend, there's a reason for that.
4 Japanese whisky — or tea — tastings
Nestled in the middle of the snow, at the end of a maze of all-glass corridors is a tiny bar called The Nest. It's exactly that: a crackling brazier, comfortable couches with endless cushions and a 12-year local whisky. The long bar is modern and aesthetically pleasing but it's the surrounding landscape through floor-to-ceiling glass walls that is the true appeal. The contrast of the freezing outdoors with the warmth brought on by the whisky and sake we sipped is an experience I'd like to replicate many times..
5 No kids!
Well, they're there but you don't have to entertain them. Club Med's kids' facilities are second-to-none. From learning to ski or snowboard, to puppet and dance shows, arts and crafts, table tennis, or even reading and writing — the Club Med GOs (Gentils Organisateurs) are all trained in working with children. The GOs hang out with the kids all day, so rather than being like daycare, it's up to your child to determine what the day involves. And if that doesn't involve you — the mountain is calling.
FACT BOX
GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Tokyo, with connections to Sapporo available with partner airlines. One-way Economy Class fares from $599.