Pande Sutawan traded a career at a 400-room hotel in Kuta, Bali's bustling beach resort, to divide his time between two boutique resorts at slow-paced Ubud, 50km inland: the Hotel Tjampuhan and Spa, built into the side of a forest gorge, and the upmarket Pita Maha resort and spa.
He saysvillagers who once sent local handcrafts, clothing and furniture to the southern markets now sell direct to tourists from small shops added to the front of their family compounds.
Shops stretch for several kilometres along the road north to Jalan Tegallalang.
"You can get wood carvings or stone sculpture for about half the price you would pay in Kuta."
For concentrated shopping, he recommends the Pasar Seni Sukawati market, a maze of stalls packed into a two-storey building.
"Here you find very good quality Balinese handcrafts, fabrics and basketware at a very reasonable price."
Best prices are early morning or late in the day. For eating and drinking, Pande says Ubud's cafes and bars are uniformly reliable.
Ary's warung (restaurant) is deservedly the best known, offering fragrant rice and seafood dishes for $5-$8.
Best free attraction is browsing - at the markets or one of Ubud's museums and galleries.
