KEY POINTS:
It was the stunning mountainside track between the five fishing villages of the Cinque Terre that first drew me to Liguria. But it is the old-world ambience of its coastal resorts, its unspoiled natural beauty and its world-famous cuisine that have lured me back every year since.
Liguria
is the narrow strip of coastal land literally squeezed between the mountains and the sea that stretches in a crescent from the French border through Genoa, and around to La Spezia. From the French border to Genoa it is called the Riviera di Ponente. Here one finds Italy's version of Cannes and Monte Carlo. It is home to such belle epoque seaside resorts as the elegant San Remo. From Genoa south to the shores of Tuscany it is called the Riviera di Levante. And, it is this hundred-mile stretch of verdant coastal cliffs, with its tiny bays and beaches, quaint fishing villages and elegant seaside resorts, which I find irresistible. The following are some of its hidden gems.
Santa Margherita Ligure provides the ideal base for exploring the Riviera di Levante. Its elegant palm-lined waterfront with fountains, gardens, and sidewalk cafes, set against the background of historic pastel-coloured buildings, with impressive views over beaches and luxury yachts to the azure Mediterranean, exudes charm. With a population of 10,000, it is large enough to provide a wide selection of hotels, restaurants and shops, yet small enough to navigate on foot. Because of its central location and the excellent rail, bus, and ferry services, a rental car is not needed. Cinque Terre and Genoa can be reached in less than an hour. Enchanting Portofino is within walking distance along a spectacular oceanside promenade.
Historically, Santa Margherita dates back nearly to Roman times. It boasts a formidable 16th-century castle and a stunning 17th-century church with an extravagant gilded and chandeliered interior (Basilica of St Margaret). Because of its ideal Mediterranean climate, wealthy Genoese began building elaborate summer villas here in the 17th century. Villa Durazzo, with its exotic gardens and parkland, brimming with classical statuary, is not to be missed.
The atmosphere here is relaxed and cultured. Back from the oceanfront, most of the narrow streets and small piazzas are pedestrian-only zones. The many buildings decorated with trompe d'oeil (a painting technique that makes flat surfaces appear three-dimensional) are uniquely Ligurian. One has to look carefully to discern if windows, shutters or other architectural features are real or simply painted on to the buildings.
Because most tourists here are Italian rather than foreign, local restaurants seem less touristy, featuring simple regional specialties.
In recent years, taking the mountainside walkway between the Cinque Terre villages has become immensely popular. It is now deemed a national park. Its beauty and charm are unique. However, because of the rush of tourists to this small area, the reality of the walk in summer is that you trudge behind an endless queue of walkers, and descend on the tiny villages cheek by jowl with hundreds of tourists. In these conditions visitors would be forgiven if they failed to feel the charm.
What most people don't realise is a bit further up the coast is an area of equal natural beauty, with 70km of spectacular coastal walking tracks, surrounded by picturesque villages (Portofino, Camogli, San Fruttuoso), and charming towns (Santa Margherita and Rapallo).
On my last trip I walked the prettiest section of the Cinque Terre, Monterosso to Vernazza, a two to three-hour walk, encountering hundreds of other walkers. The next day I walked the two to three-hour coastal path from San Fruttuoso to Portofino, through the lush forests of the Parco Naturale di Portofino, amidst its 700 species of flora and 100 species of birds, enjoying magnificent views, breathing in the scent of heather, hornbeam and myrtle; and I passed no more than a dozen other hikers.
Moreover, this walk finished in arguably the most beautiful village in Italy, incomparable Portofino, which appears like a huge Hollywood stage-set of gorgeous buildings, crowded around a picture-perfect yacht-filled harbour, back-dropped by hillsides of lavish villas.
In modern Italy, Camogli (pronounced kuh-mo-lee) may be about as close as one can get to a place which is largely unchanged by time. The derivation of its name means "house of wives" which reflects the fact that for centuries the men here spent much of their time fishing at sea while the women kept things going at home. Today, a small fleet of fishing boats still plies the seas, and women can be seen mending nets along the docks.
The town's architecture is unique and attractive. Tall pastel-coloured houses (some six or seven stories high) are squeezed against the steep hillsides facing the beach, harbour, and the waters known as the Gulf of Paradise. Below, small lanes and alleys are a hive of activity with shops, cafes, galleries and markets.
Camogli can be reached from Santa Margherita by train in five minutes, by bus in about 15 minutes, or by ferry services coming from Santa Margherita to Portofino to San Fruttuoso to Camogli.
Portovenere occupies a strategic position at the entrance to the gulf of La Spezia, historically an important naval port. Located at the tip of a peninsula, the town appears as one large medieval battlement gathered around a castle. The pretty houses that line the harbour are arranged in such a way that villagers could reach the safety of the fortress if under attack.
Nineteenth-century poets Shelley and Byron particularly enjoyed holidays here and delighted in swimming across the gulf to Lerici on the other side.
Sadly, though, Shelley drowned in a swimming accident here. Since then these waters have been known as the Gulf of Poets.
Few medieval towns are as authentic or interesting as this one. It has been designated a Unesco world heritage site, and visitors still enter it through the town gate which has a Latin inscription dated 1113.
Portovenere is not on the rail line. Visitors can arrive by ferry or bus from La Spezia. The main street is lined with interesting shops, views from the castle towards Lerici are amazing, and the focaccia may be the best in the world.
Halfway between Santa Margherita and Portofino, a few minutes on the bus or a 30-minute walk, is the Baia di Paraggi (Bay of Paraggi). Here in a secluded cove is the area's most beautiful sandy beach. The beautiful Paraggi Hotel controls the beach, but for a fee, rental chairs, umbrellas, and changing rooms are offered to visitors.
The ocean is classic Mediterranean, clear and turquoise. And, because nearby posh Portofino has no beach for its upmarket guests, Paraggi is often the place to spot the rich and famous who, like all tourists, have come to enjoy this delightful piece of paradise.
- Detours, HoS