Isle of peace and devotion

By TOM COCKREM

I had seen those old black and white photos of throngs of temple devotees, with arms aloft in deference to the god. To what extent, I wondered, would such fervour be exhibited in Bali today?

My three-day stay promised to immerse me in the island's famous culture. I would find out for myself. And yes, those scenes of temple fervour remain. As a visitor you experience them in full and splendid colour, as you do so many forms of celebration and art.

I was staying on the island's eastern side. My hotel - the Alila Manggis - offers far more than your typical luxury resort. Its main focus is culture - Balinese culture that is, with all the exotic wonders that entails. And a guest's role is far from passive. There is trekking to be done, historic towns and cultural centres to explore, cooking classes to attend, plus trips to the local market with the chef.

The hotel is a few kilometres south of the small tourist strip at Candi Dasa. It is also within easy driving reach of some of Bali's best natural and cultural attractions.

Just south of the Alila is Klungkung. The town is home to the palace of the old Dewa Agung dynasty, which so staunchly resisted the colonising Dutch. A devastating onslaught in 1908 saw the entire royal family opt for suicide. Few of the palace buildings survived. Of those that did, the most intriguing is the Hall of Justice (Kertha Gosa). This open-sided pavilion has its ceiling covered in traditional Kamasan-style murals.

They graphically depict the range of brutal punishments that await all earthly sinners in the dreaded underworld: burning, boiling, stabbing; and for moral transgressors an inventive raft of tortures too heinous to describe.

Our trip to Klungkung began in a far more friendly way, with an early-morning stroll through Pasar Senggol, one of Bali's biggest and most earthy produce markets. Chef Simon Blaby showed the way. He knew everyone, it seemed, in every stall. Enthusiastic greetings assailed us from all sides - from the mischievous lady selling live prawns and eels; from the irrepressible "snake man", whose 2m-long python had wrapped itself around his waist.

We learned some of the expert buyer's tricks: the best dried fish attracts no flies, and freshness can at times be judged by the glint in a vendor's eye.

We also stopped off in nearby Kamasan. This quiet little village is where the famous Kamasan style of classical painting originated. Master painter I Nyoman Mandra welcomes visitors to his home. You get to see the process by which this intricately detailed and highly stylised work is undertaken - the mixing of the paints, the waxing of the cotton cloth, and the application of the ink by the master.

I have rarely - no, never - been to Bali when there has not been a festival or ceremonial event in full swing. This time it was Pagarwes. It refers to the need for the island to protect its precious culture by building around it a symbolic iron fence.

Wherever we drove, we passed through little villages in the full flush of celebration. The streets were lined with penjar - tall bamboo poles festooned with little offerings and shrines.

Balinese temples are always at their colourful best at the time of such festivals. And two of the island's most important ones are near Candi Dasa.

Pura Besakih is Bali's "Mother temple". It straddles the southwest slopes of the Mt Agung volcano, in palpable nearness to the gods. It comprises no fewer than 23 full size individual temples, the main one of which is Pura Penataran Agung.

A giant walled complex, the temple harbours a mini forest of lofty temple roofs - those multi-tiered merus that soar like mountain pines into the clouds.

My guide, Ida Bagus Kumara, wore full ceremonial attire, and had the distinct air of a devotee. Not much less was expected of me. I was soon decked out in a full-sized sarong, which Kumara tied in the traditional way. I felt at once more Balinese.

We arrived in time to see the first string of devotees making their offerings at the altar. Once seated, they received the water blessing from the priest. Then the prayers began. I felt privileged yet intrusive to witness such a reverential scene, accompanied by chants and eerie gongs, and moved away as directed as proceedings got more roundly under way.

A similarly inspiring scene awaited us at Pura Goa Lawah. This is one of Bali's nine "directional" temples, and as such of great importance.

It is an ancient site, located at the entrance to a cave. Along with its million squealing bats, the cave is said to accommodate the giant serpent deity, Naga Basuki. Few have ventured far enough inside to see.

Bali's rich cultural inheritance came courtesy of the Majapahit dynasty, which brought Hinduism from Java five centuries ago. Few pre-Majapahit settlements remain. One that does is Tenganan. The village's Bali Aga inhabitants jealously cling to time-honoured customs said to have been handed them by Indra.

Aloof and exclusive they might be, but I found the Tengananese both welcoming and friendly. Their handicraft too are among the most collectible on the island, in particular their double ikat weaving and their basketry of the finest ata palm. Happily these are on sale throughout the village.

On the last morning of my stay at Alila, I availed myself of the property's private retreat - the Putung hill bale. This is an open-sided shelter high on a hilltop overlooking spectacular rice terraces and the coast. There could be no more perfect spot for a late and lazy brunch, served with aplomb by the hotel's cheerful staff.

Sitting up here in this sublimely tranquil hideaway, you can find yourself in envy of the rural Balinese. For them such a setting is the backdrop to their normal daily lives - lives that are so lavishly endowed with ceremony, music, theatre and art.

Their fertile little paradise affords them ample time for these pursuits. Their gods, of course, must be well pleased.

And the people, for their part, can clearly see no reason for their lives of harmonious devotion to change.

On the Web

Bali Tourism Authority



Getting there

Flight Centre is offering a package that includes return airfares from Auckland to Denpasar, return airport transfers, six nights' accommodation, bottle of sparkling wine, departure gift, complimentary romantic dinner for two, free 50-minute Balinese massage, Asian facial or reflexology for two and an upgrade to a deluxe room at the Alila Manggis hotel. Packages start from $1689 a person based on twin share - offer available until August 9. Airport taxes and insurances are extra.

What to take

Light cottons, insect repellent, sun hat, sun block, comfortable walking shoes or sandals.

When to go

The cool, dry season is from April till October, and is the best time to go.