Island sanctuaries for city folk and wildlife

One of the most attractive features of Auckland is the Hauraki Gulf and its islands. There are 47 in total - from the large "commuter suburb" of Waiheke to several named rocks that poke up out of the ocean.

You can visit the recreational islands by public transport, or moor a yacht in their harbours. The conservation islands have been set aside as sanctuaries for struggling plant and animal populations - especially birds - and access to them is restricted. Special permits are required to visit some islands and others are completely out of bounds.

Here's some information, from The New Zealand Herald Guide to Auckland 2004, on two of the Gulf islands.

TIRITIRI MATANGI

This haven for native birds is one of the few places in the country where you can still be deafened by birdsong. Wildlife is protected at this sanctuary 4km off the coast of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, but visitors are permitted. You are not, however, allowed to bring any animals, and that includes pet dogs and cats, as well as ferrets, stoats and possums.

Native birds, including many rare species, are doing extremely well here, and the takahe are so tame they are like pets. Other species include stitchbirds, saddlebacks, black robins, bellbirds, parakeets, whiteheads and little spotted kiwi, as well as the more common tui and fantails.

As well as the thriving bird population, more than 250,000 locally propagated native trees have been planted on the island by thousands of volunteers.

There is an information office and shop by the lighthouse, which is New Zealand's best-preserved historic lighthouse complex, consisting of a signal station, several fog-horns and two cottages.

No food is available but boxed lunches can be provided if ordered when booking. Yachties should note that there are no areas allocated for berthing.

GETTING THERE

Fullers runs summertime trips from Thursday to Sunday, departing Auckland at 9am and from Whangaparaoa (Gulf Harbour) at 9.45am. Costs (return) from Auckland: adults $45, children $23. From Whangaparaoa (return): adults $25, children $15. A guided ramble on the island is only an extra $5 donation a person. Ph (09) 367 9111 to book.

RANGITOTO

Rangitoto Island, 260m above sea level at its summit, is the largest and youngest of Auckland's 50 volcanoes. Local Maori are thought to have watched the island erupt into life around 600 years ago, as human and dog footprints have been found in ash hardened into rock on Rangitoto's near neighbour, Motutapu.

Rangitoto last erupted around 250 years ago and almost the entire surface of the island is lava. There are more than 200 plant species on the island, including 40 varieties of fern.

Devonport Borough Council once leased out camping sites, but today the island is a public domain administered by the Department of Conservation, which is responsible for controlling possum numbers and maintaining the tracks, signs, wharves and facilities. The wharves at Rangitoto Bay and Islington Bay are for commercial use only.

Anyone can visit the island. It's a great place for a picnic, a hike up to the summit for extraordinary views of the region, a swim in the saltwater pool by the wharf, or a look around the lava caves.

The walk to the summit takes about an hour and you can do a loop walk around the rim of the crater. The lava caves walk is a 30-minute detour.

There are several other walks into the interior or around the coast, from short strolls to the 2 1/2-hour return walk to Islington Bay.

Pounding up to the top on a blazing summer's day can take its toll, though. Sunlight reflects off the black rock, making it very hot. Always take plenty of water, wear a hat and slap on sunscreen. Bring food as well, as there is none on the island.

GETTING THERE

Fullers runs a regular service. Costs: $20 adult, $10 child, $50 family pass. Check the Fullers Infoline. Ph (09) 367 9120 for details of sailings and Explorer tours which will take you to the summit or around the island in the comfort of a dinky 4WD road train.

* The New Zealand Herald Guide to Auckland 2004 (Penguin $16.95, available all bookstores)