Island of native birdsong

Tiritiri Matangi Island is a natural haven for native birds and as JENNY ENDERBY writes, it is a place of wonder for visitors of all ages.

Looking around us we could have been somewhere deep in New Zealand's bush, yet we were in sight of its largest city. We were 30km north of central Auckland and 4km from the end of Whangaparaoa Peninsula, on one of the country's most important and exciting conservation projects.

Tiritiri Matangi Island is well on its way to recovering from 120 years of farming when its 220ha were stripped of almost all its native bush.

Thanks to work done between 1984 and 1994 - when up to 300,000 trees were planted - it has become home to a range of native birds, some of which, were bordering on extinction.

Among those saved were the takahe - one of the world's rarest birds which was thought to be extinct until in 1948, when a small population was found in Fiordland.

Takahe is one of 10 species of endangered birds that have been introduced to Tiri.

We joined a handful of people on the ferry to the island - all armed with cameras and binoculars. As we stepped off the ferry and onto the deck we were greeted by a sound like a small bell. It was answered by another, and another, until the air was filled with the songs of bellbirds. Almost everyone in our party stopped, entranced by the sounds, the creators of which were still unseen.

With the birds' songs in the background, the island's rangers, Ray and Barbara Walter introduced themselves. They were the island's lighthouse keepers until the light became automated in 1984.

Ray explained the importance of the island as a bird sanctuary and the part visitors must play to ensure that it stays pristine.

"The island is now predator free," says Ray. "But we still get the occasional mouse arriving in a day pack."

Ray explained that the other danger to the island was fire - so smoking is banned in the bush areas.

Tiri has a large group of supporters who help the Department of Conservation and work as volunteer guides for visitors.

We headed along the track near the beach to a series of small stone structures. These were nesting boxes made for the little blue penguins that fed near the island. Each box had a wooden lid and glass top - through it we could see the penguins without disturbing them.

We continued towards Hobbs Beach and up the Kawerau Track. The best way to see the birds was to let them come to us.

Within 15 minutes we were visited by tuis, bellbirds, stitchbirds, fantails, whiteheads, saddlebacks and brilliant green kakariki parrots in the trees above us.

Nearby on the ground a North Island robin stood motionless, its presence only given away when it moved.

We continued along the boardwalk through the bush. Above us came a different sound - the almost flute-like notes of one of New Zealand's rarest birds, the kokako, the most musical of birds.

This large grey bird has bright blue patches or wattles on the sides of its head - another name for it, the wattled crow, being an apt description. The kokako is not a great flier but makes up for this in agility.

As we watched, a pair of kokako jumped from branch to branch, stopping to feed on leaves and the occasional fruit. They stopped 6m above us, peering down as we sat motionless on the edge of the boardwalk. They then bounced down the tree and began to feed beside us.

Even the children in our group stopped, aware of the rarity of the event taking place. The kokako then headed back into the canopy, stopping occasionally to call before moving out of sight.

The sight of leaves being tossed around near the boardwalk stopped us again. This time two dark birds with red-brown backs tossed the fallen leaves about as they hunted for food.

They were North Island saddlebacks, these were also thought to be extinct until a colony on Hen Island off Whangarei was found. They have thrived since their introduction to Tiri with between 300 to 500 birds on the island.

We joined the Ridge Track, high on the island looking at the views across the water to Rangitoto Island. A little fantail fluttered around us, rarely stopping for more than a few seconds.

Tuis with their gleaming blue-black plumage and tuft of white under their chins flew past, oblivious of us. A bellbird, its green plumage camouflaging it in the foliage, broke the silence, creating the sound that it was named for.

Most of Tiri's trees were hand planted, starting in 1983 when a nursery was set up. The seeds used were from the trees and shrubs in the few small remaining patches of bush. School parties and conservation groups spent hours planting the native trees and shrubs. Some of our group were part of the school planting project and today had brought their children to the island.

Several large blue birds wandered across the track. We had hoped there would be more takahe but they were a smaller relative, the pukeko. They vanished into the surrounding shrubs before we got close.

Ahead was the lighthouse and our destination for lunch and a cup of tea at the rest area near the shop.

Several takahe moved around the lighthouse, feeding. One of the island's original takahe, known as Mr Blue used to frequent this area, watching for a chance to share someone's lunch. Takahe have a powerful beak that can damage fingers, and visitors are warned not to feed them as there is plenty of natural food on the island.

Lunch was interrupted as a pair of kokako swooped into the trees above. This time it was only a fleeting visit, and with a musical call they moved off towards the Wattle Valley.

The valley was our track back to the wharf to meet the ferry. We had two more hours to enjoy the birdlife and one thing was certain - we weren't going to return home disappointed.

Getting there

* Ferries leave from Auckland at 9 am for the one-hour trip to Tiritiri Matangi Island Thursday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, plus Fridays from end of September.

* You can also catch the ferry at Gulf Harbour, leaving at 9.45 am. Bookings are essential. Ferry leaves Tiritiri Matangi Island at around 3.30 pm. Phone Fullers on (09) 367 9111

email:mailto:enquiries@fullersakl.co.nz

Fullers


What the trip will cost

Auckland fare is: adult $45, child $23, senior $40, family $112.50 (2 adults, 2 children).

Gulf Harbour fare is adult $25, child $15, senior $22.50, family $65.

Guided walk is $5 for adults.

What to wear

* You will need good footwear, boots or sports shoes as the tracks can be wet.

* A raincoat or umbrella is handy even on fine days as the weather can change quickly.

* Sun protection is essential in summer and binoculars will be handy.

What to take

* Take your own food and drinks and take your rubbish home with you.

* Heavy bags can be carried by trailer to the lighthouse.

* Tea and coffee are available, courtesy of the Supporters of Tiri, who also run a small shop selling souvenirs, the proceeds of which go towards the island's upkeep.