Ireland: Dublin's fair city

To visit the Emerald Isle is to bear witness to this small country's varied history. In Dublin, Kate Ford discovers everything from bog bodies and bullet holes to beer.

History of the uprising

Ireland may be a small country but its history is complex and the scars of its past form the backbone of its proud people.

The General Post Office, on O'Connell St in Dublin's city centre, is a grand reminder of a difficult time. This beautiful building, designed in the Greek Revival style, formed the 1916 Easter Rising headquarters for the uprising's leaders.

Volunteers and members of the Citizen Army marched to the post office where they took over the building and hoisted republican flags in protest at British rule. This is the location where activist leader Patrick Pearse read the Proclamation of the Irish Republic.

Following days of battle with the British Army, the uprising members were forced to surrender their headquarters when a fire broke out. It was years before the building was restored and the facade is all that remains of the original building today.

Home to the National Museum of Ireland's collection of decorative arts. Photo / Getty Images

You can see bullet holes on the pillars out the front and it is quite strange to go inside the working post office, considering its short but sharp historical significance, and see people sending their parcels and paying bills.

If Ireland's Easter Rising history interests you, a visit to Collins Barracks is a must.

Once the military barracks, these buildings now form the National Museum of Ireland — Decorative Arts and History. Since March 2016, Proclaiming a Republic: The 1916 Rising, has been a key exhibition and was launched to mark the uprising's centenary.

It features relics such as the Irish Republic Flag that flew over the General Post Office; clothing worn by both the rebels and the British Army; and a crucifix with bullet holes. An engrossing way to share this historical moment, the exhibition tells the story of the "civilians, combatants and survivors" through accounts of the people and organisations who were involved in the Rising.

Noteworthy mention: Kilmainham Gaol, the brutal jail where leaders of the uprising and other Irish revolutionaries were imprisoned and executed. Book in advance because you can only visit as part of a guided tour.

The Beer

If there is such a thing as a Disneyland for beer lovers, this is it: the Guinness Storehouse. Even the factory's origin story is magical — when Arthur Guinness signed a 9000-year lease in 1759 to begin pumping out beer for the people.

What was once the fermentation area of the old factory is now a seven-storey Guinness wonderland with a piece of the brand's unique story on each level, supposedly structured to represent the perfect Guinness pour.

Dublin, County Dublin, Republic of Ireland. Photo / Getty Images

We begin the self-guided tour by learning about the beer's four ingredients (water, barley, hops and yeast). With big water displays, hanging hop plants and a giant trough of barley — not unlike a sandpit for grown-ups — the Storehouse is interesting for even those with a lukewarm appreciation for beer. Like little bubbles in a beer glass, we continue rising up 'the pint' to hear the story of your man Arthur Guinness (a fellow who had 21 children), and we learn the proper way to taste a Guinness, complete with a sample in a baby Guinness pint glass.

Finally, our small efforts are rewarded with a pint of the Black Stuff (which, we learn, is actually ruby-coloured) on the seventh floor as we park up at the Gravity Bar and stare out at Dublin's horizon.

Noteworthy mentions: No sampling of Ireland's beer could be complete without a visit to The Brazen Head, the country's oldest pub. Supposedly dating back to 1198, the pub has served cold ones to everyone from novelist James Joyce to revolutionary Daniel O'Connell.

Museums and attractions

For an incredibly varied taste of Ireland's history, add the National Museum of Ireland — Archaeology to your Dublin to-do list. Here you will see the curious bog bodies, gnarled remains of men from the Iron Age who were discovered in Irish bogs. The Kingship and Sacrifice exhibition at the museum explores the idea of human sacrifice related to tribal boundaries and sovereignty during the Iron Age. The sight of the withered, leathery remains will take more than a moment to forget but there's no arguing it is a fascinating exhibition.

If bog bodies aren't your thing, the museum also explores Ireland's Viking Age through surviving objects, including a Viking skeleton. Tamer items of interest include gold, ceramics and glass objects.

Noteworthy mentions: If the weather is favourable, a stroll through the grounds of Trinity College is a nice way to spend an hour, particularly if you want to see the famous Book of Kells, held at the college's library.

The marvellous St Patrick's Cathedral should also be on your list of things to see in Dublin. With a 43m spire, the 12th-century cathedral's interior details are as beautiful and dramatic as its exterior.

The Campanile in Trinity College, Dublin City. Photo / Getty Images