KEY POINTS:
For Shia Muslims a pilgrimage to Mashhad in north-eastern Iran is one of the most important journeys they can make. And for those who have limited incomes it will be the substitute for the more expensive exercise of travel to Mecca.
Every year about 20 millions pilgrims from all over the Muslim world descend on this large city to pay homage to the burial place of the martyred eighth imam, Imam Reza.
Along with frequent visits to the huge shrine complex, they will fit in sightseeing to mountain villages and the tomb of Persian epic poet Ferdowsi, and do a lot of shopping, - especially for saffron, perfumes and religious souvenirs, such as a new set of prayer beads or a prayer mat.
The shrine complex is a vast glittering array of mosques, prayer halls, a library, museum and marble courtyards. Over the imam's tomb is a stunning gold dome flanked by two gleaming gold minarets.
We sat in the courtyards and watched sophisticated city Iranians and wide-eyed country folk (the women often with tears streaming down their cheeks) passing by on their way to the inner tomb and stopping to admire the illuminated fountains and wonderfully decorated tiled walls.
In one of the lofty ivans (the barrel ceiling halls with one side opening on to a courtyard) we sat on one of the beautiful carpets - there must be thousands of these in the complex - and listened as a mullah took a class of young boys through a lesson on the Koran.
This is the beating heart of Shia Islam and the atmosphere is spiritual, reverent and very welcoming to visitors.
I tell a woman sitting nearby how beautiful the shrine is and she strokes my cheek and prays Allah will look after me during my future travels.
While the white-turbaned mullah continues his classes, family groups sit on the carpets nearby, mothers and fathers reading the Koran and other religious texts.
Beside them small children build castles out of mohrs, the small tablets Shia Muslims place on the ground in front of them before they start to pray. When they put their foreheads to the ground they will touch the mohr.
Toddlers lie sprawled asleep in their mothers' laps and fathers carry babies cocooned in quilts patterned with Winnie the Pooh.
There is an atmosphere of collective goodwill. A blonde visitor like me is greeted with some curiosity but mostly great warmth.
I can't help thinking that this is as about as far from the stereoptypical images of Shia Islam as it is possible to be.
Pictured above: Pilgrims outside the shrine to Imam Reza at Mashhad in north-eastern Iran.
