Aussies flock to Bali as direct flights resume. Video / NZ Herald
Bali boasts top cuisines from all over the world, and these are the best spots to find them, writes Anna King Shahab.
Seminyak
Motel Mexicola
A colourful pueblo-like building decorated with portraits from Mexico, candle wax sculptures, and rainbow-hued wall-hangings – Motel Mexicola is the tequileria you never knew you needed on your Indonesian island stay.
As well as very quaffable margaritas, the drinks list stumps up a host of other cocktails, plus a decent list of tequilas and mezcals to boot. The salmon tiradito, snapper ceviche, tuna tostadas, and watermelon salad really hit the spot for us on a seriously hot day. Larger plates include grilled barramundi, barbecued chicken, and braised lamb shank in broth.
Overlooking the lively beachfront pool at Potatohead beach club, Kaum showcases the rich culinary history of the Indonesian archipelago, using produce sourced from small-scale local operators. Staff share stories about which region, island, or even particular village a dish hails from as they serve it up, and talk through the way certain ingredients like spices, herbs, and proteins make the dish special.
Don't miss the nasi goreng babi, a wickedly good fried rice using pork sausage from northern Bali's Singaraja province along with field mushrooms, and the beautiful Sumatran rendition of beef rendang, braised in fresh coconut milk.
It was once the rustic indie cousin to neighbouring Seminyak, with just a few warungs and smoothie bars dotted around, however Canggu has seen exponential growth over the past five years. Among its very first developments, Hotel Tugu remains a charming place to stay and to visit with an appetite.
Owned by one of Indonesia's most prolific antique collectors, Tugu is a living gallery, including its restaurant, Ji, housed in a reconstructed 1700s temple. The golden hour before dusk is a great time to settle into a possie on the terrace and take in the view: the fiery sun melting into the Indian Ocean, and the comings and goings at legendary beach club Old Man's, across the road.
The menu is Japanese with a side of local tropical produce and touches of Nikkei. Pretty platters of sashimi, nigiri, sushi rolls and crunchy tempura are bolstered by proteins cooked over charcoal, including Kobe-style Angus and wagyu beef, lobster, pork belly, and prawns.
Cocktails are served up theatrically with smoke, fire, and dry ice. We loved the savoury kaiso with seaweed, infused shochu, ginger, grapefruit and lime, and the tropical passion rosella which brings blue curacao into the 21st century, marrying it with infused tequila and lemon marmalade.
Starter Lab
Tropical fruit breakfasts never get boring in my book, but if you can't go a week or so without your sourdough fix, Starter Lab has your back. New York-born baker Emerson Manibo has a pedigree that includes time at the sourdough temple, San Fran's Tartine. He and his team make a range of breads as well as pastries, beignets, and "vanilla slice" which in Kiwi translates as incredibly good custard square.
Ubud
Moksa
Nestled in the rice paddies of Sayan, Moksa is a plant-based paradise. Seated in the open-air dining room (we love tucking ourselves in cross-legged at the traditional low tables with cushions) you are surrounded by the permaculture farm from which the produce on the plate comes from.
Our meal kicked off with shots of papaya and calamansi lime juice, and continued with sushi with jicama rice, mixed mushrooms in lemongrass and coconut broth, a plant-based lasagne with cashew cream and pumpkin pasta, and a fragrant green curry packed with vegetables from the garden. Time your lunch to coincide with the farmers' market (held on Saturdays, check the website for upcoming dates) – the courtyard comes alive with dozens of stalls piled with colourful produce, spices, honey, chocolate, and more.
Fresh fruit and vege galore at the Moksa market. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Chef Cristian Encina grew up helping in his dad's busy restaurant in Chile, and at Pica South American Kitchen he brings the flavours of his childhood to Ubud, courtesy of excellent local produce. Seafood is big here – ceviche, oysters, grilled prawns with salsa escabeche, and arroz con mariscos – paella-like rice packed with the catch of the day: prawns, clams, octopus, and more.
Don't miss the empanadas, made daily. More recently Encina opened Cantina Rooftop – nestled high on Campuhan hill, it offers beautiful temple views alongside elegant yet casual bites.
The well-stocked bar at The Howff. Photo / Anna King Shahab.
Nusa Lembongan
The Howff
Forgive me for repeating the term "incongruous" but it must be said about being greeted by knight's armour at the entrance to a dungeon-like whisky and gin bar built into an ocean-lapped cliff on the wee, surfers' paradise island of Nusa Lembongan – a 40-minute ferry ride from Sanur on mainland Bali.
It's best experienced when staying at the hotel that presides on the clifftop above, Batu Karang – this way you'll be able to make your way through a good few of the many amazing tipples on offer and merely have to ascend the steps to lay your head.
The whiskies run the gamut, a treat for connoisseurs: Highland, Lowland, Isles, Speyside, Japanese and Australasian. Gins from all over the world are made into cocktails or served "Spanish"-style with housemade dried garnishes to complement the botanicals therein.
