What you need to know before meeting the world's biggest lizards.
Chris Hutchings steps ashore and spots komodos in the Kitchen on one of Indonesia's volcanic islands.
If you dream of sailing the waters of the Flores Sea on the lookout for komodo dragons on passing islands, a phinisi should be your vessel of choice.
A phinisi is an Indonesian two-masted sailing ship that can take you to the main islands of Komodo National Park: Komodo, Rinca and Padar. On the wooden vessel, lie back, enjoy the breeze and take in the scenery as you're transported between each trek, dive, snorkel or swim.
Padar Island is a part of the area in the Komodo National Park. Photo / Getty Images
And, with any luck, there'll be a fiery sunset to capture on the way home.
Phinisis vary in length from 15 to 35 metres. Originally sailboats, most have engines these days, but retain their rigging and sails. Now they are mainly used as inter-island cargo carriers and tourist boats.
The first phinisis were thought to have been modelled on the Dutch pinas that came to the region around 1600, and were used to transport cargo during colonial times and as warships during fights for independence.
Today, there are cabins, which usually accommodate two people, on live-aboard ships for longer journeys.
Most set sail from Labuan Bajo, on the western tip of Flores. But there are trips from Pelabuhan Sape, eastern Sumbawa, or Kanawa Island, west of Labuan Bajo.
We headed out from Labuan Bajo at the early hour of 4am because there's much to fit into the day.
Once on board, some of us settle into a cabin for a couple of hours' more sleep. Others lie on the thick cushioning covering the large centre area of the deck for a pleasant, al fresco snooze under the stars, accompanied by the gentle lapping of the waves.
We head to Padar, a small island between Komodo and Rinca. It's rugged, with steep volcanic mountains, deep bays and beautiful beaches of different colours — but sadly no komodo dragons.
We trek to the top of a ridge, which is tough in the heat but well worth it to look out over rugged peaks of green sweeping down into deep, turquoise water.
One of the most spectacular sights on Padar is the peculiar Pink Beach, which gets its colour from fragments of red coral.
We return to the boat and head off for a snorkel amid schools of fish large and small, and plenty of pretty coral.
As well as having great places for a hike, or a stroll, followed by a well-deserved rest on a serene beach, Padar is a great place to swim or snorkel with several notable diving sites and a host of other tempting places, each with their own appeal.
The komodo dragon, the largest lizard in the world. Photo / 123RF
But you don't have to stick to Padar: there are squillions of great spots in Komodo National Park. At Manta Point, you can swim with a manta ray or two. Bidadari Island has long, white beaches, wonderfully clear water, colourful fish and corals — all perfect for snorkelling or scuba diving.
But Castle Rock on Gili Lawa Island may possibly be the best, especially for diving. Here you can see black-and-white-tipped sharks, giant trevally, tuna schools and sometimes dolphins.
After our snorkel and a tasty lunch on board the phinisi, we head to Komodo — the island that gives its name to the national park and its chief resident, the komodo dragon.
Rinca Island also has komodo dragons — perhaps more — but it is to Komodo that most tourists go. It has several trails of differing lengths and difficulty along which you may see one of these giant reptiles. But the best spot is the Kitchen, where you'll usually find several lounging around, waiting for a bite to eat.
Don't be fooled by their cumbersome gait; komodos can outrun a human, and eat prey the size of a water buffalo or deer.
Komodo dragons — which can grow to more than 3m and weigh up to 91kg — do attack if irritated, so don't get too close.
But they're usually happy to be photographed from a distance.
After snapping a few money shots, it's time to head back to the phinisi and to Labuan Bajo.
But there's one more fantastic sight in store: a glorious, fiery sunset. A perfect end to a memorable day.
A traditional Phinisi schooner, Indonesia. Photo / Getty Images
Checklist
GETTING THERE A 10-night Cruise Indonesia package starts from $4755pp, twin share, on board the luxury tall ship Star Clipper. The cruise departs from Bali and visits Gili Islands, Lombok, Komodo Island and Satonda. helloworld.co.nz
