KEY POINTS:
The Indian state of Rajasthan is famous for its colourful camel fairs and grand hotels in the former homes of the maharajas.
Our small procession of camel carts set off along a sandy track that curved behind the holy lake in Pushkar, India, on our way to the town's camel and cattle fair. The camels padded silently through fields of commercially grown roses and past a small crematorium where stacks of firewood stood ready to feed the funeral fires.
The only sound was the chatter of small birds, the muffled rumble of the carts' huge wheels and the occasional command of the camel driver. But as we trundled up a low hill the contemplative mood was shattered when the convoy came to an abrupt stop.
A herd of about 30 unfettered camels swirled around us, grabbing mouthfuls of thorny bushes and stopping to stare suspiciously at the strange cargo on the camel carts. A turban-clad cameleer appeared behind them and with a few sharp commands and plenty of stick-waving, the way was soon clear for us to continue.
The unexpected encounter with these curious beasts caused excited chatter among our small group of Kiwis, but when we reached the brow of the hill even the most garrulous were silenced by the sight before them. Thousands of camels in various shades of black and brown spread over the dunes, their peculiar low groans and even more peculiar smells hanging in the afternoon air.
Dotted among them, the garments of the cameleers and their families added splashes of brilliance to the sepia tones of the scene. Entrepreneurial women in gorgeous traditional garb gathered camel dung to sell as fuel, while others strode back from the communal well with brass containers balanced perfectly on their heads.
Meanwhile, the men were occupied with the camels: cleaning teeth, clipping elaborate patterns in the hair, adorning them with colourful apparel, or blackening stubby manes with Kiwi boot polish. Some gathered feed, while others stood in sales circles, their vivid turbans bobbing as they bargained.
The small, oasis-like town of Pushkar is in the heart of Rajasthan, often referred to as India's desert state. It is predominantly agricultural, with millions of small-time farmers ekeing out a living in the arid conditions. Camels are an integral part of this lifestyle and camel and cattle fairs are held everywhere. The annual Pushkar Fair is the largest, with around 10,000 camels and thousands of horses and cattle brought to the fair to be bought and sold.
Like our A&P shows, there are competitions, parades, food stalls, fairground rides, and other frivolity. Rajasthan still has tribal groups of traditional entertainers - acrobats, musicians, dancers and magicians - who move from village to village making a living, and their presence adds an extra element to the fair, as does that of the vendors who flock in and set up temporary stalls selling wares to rural folk.
This vast social and business event always coincides with a major religious festival held at Pushkar's lake, which Hindus believe was formed when the creator, Lord Brahma, dropped a lotus petal. It's an important holy site and throughout the year many thousands of Indians make the pilgrimage to bathe in the waters and worship at the whitewashed temples that encircle the lake.
This makes it an interesting place at any time, but the action reaches a peak during the religious festival and camel fair. It's a lively, exciting time to be in town and even after seven visits, I'm always astounded by the spectacle.
Another aspect of the fair that still surprises me is the welcome extended to visitors, who are encouraged to join in delightfully childlike activities such as musical chairs, clay pot smashing, water-carrying races and of course cricket. A family may invite you to share their simple meal, or a peanut vendor will insist you have a free helping since it might be lucky to offer the first serve of the day to a foreigner.
This is grass-roots hospitality, but in Rajasthan you can also enjoy hospitality at the other end of the scale. The state is known as the Land of Kings and it's the traditional home of the noble yet warlike Rajput clans, whose history is wreathed with tales of great battles, bravery, chivalry, and self-sacrifice.
From the seventh century, Rajput maharajas built formidable forts, opulent palaces and elaborate castles across the land. After independence in 1947, many lost much of their power and money, with former strongholds falling into ruins. However, some forts, palaces and castles have been opened to the public as museums, while others have been converted into atmospheric hotels.
Many are owned by large hotel chains and rank amongst the world's most exclusive hotels but not-so-wealthy visitors can get a taste of the royal lifestyle in smaller properties that belonged to minor rulers in more remote areas. Their descendants often live on-site, and the families still wield considerable social and political influence.
With staff members drawn from the surrounding villages, the hotels also bring economic benefits and the maharajas are often benefactors in other ways, establishing programmes in areas such as health, education and conservation.
All this combines to bring a convivial, family-like atmosphere to these wonderful old buildings and guests are welcomed warmly, often with a fanfare of trumpets, drum rolls, and marigold garlands.
Antique furniture, family heirlooms and portraits, and traditional Rajasthani artwork add to the atmosphere and if the family is in residence, they may join guests and explain the history of the property.
As well as providing a taste of Rajput hospitality, these royal retreats are a great place to rest and recharge during a visit to India.
* Heather Ramsay leads an annual tour to India that includes the Pushkar Camel Fair.
Checklist: Rajasthan
Where
Rajasthan is in the northwest of India. The capital is the pink city of Jaipur, five hours' drive from Delhi.
When
The best time is the dry season between October and February. The Pushkar Fair is held every year in October or November. Exact dates depend on the full moon.
Getting There
Singapore Airlines and Thai Airways have daily flights to Delhi and other Indian cities.
Getting Around
Travel Smart in New Plymouth offers an annual 21-day escorted tour that includes the Pushkar Fair, the Taj Mahal and the forts, palaces and villages of Rajasthan as well as the tropical state of Kerala in the south. Travel writer Heather Ramsay will lead the tour for the seventh time. Departure is November 10 and it costs $8550 per person. Contact: (06) 758 5712; Linda@tsnewplymouth.co.nz.
