KEY POINTS:
India's cuisine is a patchwork of cooking styles and ingredients, shaped by geographical, climatic, cultural, religious and historical elements, and stitched together by the extensive use of spices and herbs.
From the soaring Himalayas in the north to the sun-drenched beaches in the steamy south, India offers myriad culinary adventures, especially for those who are prepared to sample street food, eat in local restaurants, explore colourful markets, and talk to the people who produce, sell and cook the food.
Northern exposure
Mughlai cuisine is one of the strongest influences in the north. It was introduced by the Mughals, the Muslim emperors who came from central Asia in the early 16th century. Their most famous legacy is the Taj Mahal, and their culinary traditions are remembered in rich sauces, buttery curries and marinated meats cooked in the tandoor.
Another royal cuisine is found in arid Rajasthan. Known as the "Land of the Kings", the state is home of the Rajputs, a warrior race known for their striking castles, forts and palaces. Palace chefs competed to prepare elaborate dishes that were literally fit for a king - all served using dishes and utensils made from gold and silver.
The Rajputs were also great hunters, so game featured strongly in the cuisine.
Many of Rajasthan's castles and palaces have been converted to hotels, the most famous of which is the Lake Palace in the oasis city of Udaipur. This elaborate white palace covers a tiny island on Lake Pichola, giving the impression it's floating on the shimmering waters. Non-guests can book for lunch and dinner, and from the moment you step on to the transfer boat you're transported into a world of opulence and graciousness.
As well as enjoying the view to Udaipur's other palaces and forts, guests can sample specialties from around the country, prepared by a galaxy of chefs.
At the other end of the Rajasthani food experience is the simple vegetarian food that sustains the masses. Because of the scarcity of water, milk and buttermilk are often used instead.
An entertaining place to get an authentic Rajasthani meal is at Chokki Dhani near Jaipur.
This theme village is popular with locals and Indians from other states, who come to enjoy dances, puppet shows, magic shows and other traditional Rajasthani performances. Meals are served in a rustic restaurant where you sit on the floor at low tables and eat with your fingers. It's messy, a bit uncomfortable - and a lot of fun.
Southern style
When you arrive in the southern state of Kerala from the north, you could well be in a different country.
The people, the scenery, and the language are quite different, as is the food. The south is a stronghold of vegetarian cuisine but the long tropical coastline means seafood is also a feature. Coconut palms grace the golden shores, and coconut oil, meat and milk are used extensively.
Behind the narrow coastal strip, the mountainous Western Ghats provide a perfect environment for tea and spices, and the spectacular drive into the hills winds up through vast plantations.
The highland town of Thekkady is a good place to visit spice farms and see how ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, turmeric, cloves and myriad other spices are grown. A tea factory also welcomes visitors.
The fertile plain between the coast and the mountains is intensively farmed, with rice being the main crop.
A network of waterways and lagoons known as the backwaters is an important transport link connecting the interior with the coast, and visitors can enjoy a sublime Indian experience by taking a cruise on a kettuvalam - a houseboat that has been built in the style of the traditional rice barges.
Vendors in small boats pull alongside selling fresh fruit and seafood, which your personal chef will whip into a tasty meal while you watch the sunset over the waterways and rice paddies.
Kochi, the commercial capital of Kerala, has been the hub of a lucrative spice trade for thousands of years, and in the old part of town many spice merchants still peddle their wares.
After a morning exploring the narrow streets, it's worth stopping off at the impressive Chinese fishing nets. These huge cantilevered nets are still operated in the traditional way, and behind them there's a market selling fresh seafood.
You can buy wet fish from the market and have it cooked at one of the simple outdoor restaurants nearby - just bargain hard, both for the fish and the cooking fee.
Once the haggling is over, sit back, relax over a cool drink and let the Indian cooks once again work their culinary magic.
- Detours, HoS
