In the swim of things

What better way to spend a beautiful day ... JENNY ENDERBY go in search of the company of dolphins.

Behind us, the glass and concrete towers of Auckland glistened in the morning light, the Skytower thrusting above them.

On board the Dolphin Explorer, we headed away from the city, hoping for a glimpse of the marine mammals known to visit the Hauraki Gulf.

We settled back to enjoy the city views but were interrupted by a call, "Dolphin!". Everyone raced to the rails where a single bottlenose dolphin swam in our wake. This sighting, almost in the shadow of the Skytower, was a sure sign of good luck.

Our dolphin companion continued alongside as we moved through the mass of boat traffic on the harbour, past North Head and the familiar shape of Rangitoto Island.

The yachts around us broke out colourful spinnakers and the City of Sails lived up to its reputation.

Keith Algie, our skipper, gave a thorough briefing on safety procedures and what we might see. The Dolphin Explorer has a good record of spotting marine mammals on trips into the Gulf - more than 90 per cent of the time. Unlucky passengers get a free trip voucher.

The Dolphin Explorer is licensed to allow passengers to swim with common dolphins, the most often seen species. We could enter the water to swim with them only if the dolphins were playing and so long as they didn't have calves with them. The larger grey bottlenose dolphins are left to swim without human intervention.

Of the Gulf's larger residents, the two most likely to be seen are the Bryde's (pronounced Broodah's) whales and the orca or killer whales, the latter being the largest of the dolphin family.

Occasionally other whales, such as blue, fin, humpback and sei, are seen as they move through the Gulf on their annual migration from the Antarctic to the tropics.

We headed between Motuihe and Motutapu islands and then past Waiheke. The crew's enthusiasm for the whales and dolphins was infectious and everyone peered out over the sea - waiting for something to appear.

The terns, gulls, shearwaters, little blue penguins and gannets put on a show around us. The latter two drew the most attention until something big broke the surface a kilometre away.

"Orca!" Keith's single comment had everyone watching as several dorsal fins appeared. The two largest males had fins almost 2m high. The boat slowed as we moved closer to the ocean's top predators. For animals with such a ferocious reputation, orca are beautiful with their white patches glowing against the black of their bodies.

We stopped and drifted as six orca moved around us. Six or seven times they arched their backs and dived for a few minutes before reappearing to the tune of a dozen camera shutters clicking.

Orca feed on stingrays - common in the Gulf - but are capable of using their speed to catch dolphins, too. We left the orca and moved further out into the Gulf.

A dull yet almost resonant "whoosh" attracted our attention, and two dozen heads turned at once to see a plume of vapour above a huge black back with a curved dorsal fin.

Our luck continued as we watched a whale on the surface only 50m away. It was a Bryde's whale and it wasn't alone. The plumes of vapour that hung above the sea showed where several others were.

All around gannets dived and the sea surface broke into a series of splashes as a pod of common dolphins moved towards us. Their streamlined cream, grey and white shapes leapt from the water. Some dolphins came alongside the boat, giving us a view of the tiny calves, a quarter of the size of their 2m mothers.

A pod near the stern rolled and swam upside down, almost begging us to get in with them. This time we couldn't swim with the dolphins as calves were with the pod. More dolphins joined us until the pod reached 50 or more.

While we drifted they continued to play around us, showing off their acrobatic skills. Keith's voice on the intercom asked if anyone had an urgent flight to catch and made us aware it was time to head back. We began moving and several dolphins spread across the bow.

The Dolphin Explorer's twin hulls give an extra vantage point for the watchers and an additional bow for the dolphins to ride.

Gradually, as we picked up speed, the dolphins dropped behind, continuing to ride and jump in the wake.

We had struck the jackpot with the Hauraki Gulf's marine mammals.

Dolphin Explorer

Fact file

* Dolphin Explorer leaves from Pier 3, Quay St, Downtown Auckland, at 9.30 am. Departure times may change over summer and you should confirm times when making your booking.

* Trips operate year-round, weather permitting.

* Cost: $90 adults, child (5 to 15) $45, children under 5 free, family $200 and includes wetsuits, masks and fins.

* Take suntan lotion, swimwear, towel, hat, windbreaker or warm jersey, camera.

* Food and drinks are available on board.

* Contact: Ph 09 237 1466

* AucklandDolphins@xtra.co.nz