In the steppes of Genghis

The face peering curiously through the flap of my tent was clearly descended from one of the ferocious Mongolian warriors with whom Genghis Khan conquered most of the known world.

But this young herdsman's intentions were peaceful. He just wanted to find out more about the curious stranger with the two-wheeled steed who was sleeping in the middle of the Mongolian steppe.

After a few incomprehensible exchanges of dialogue, with a few hand gestures thrown in, we quaffed some airag (fermented mare's milk) to celebrate our meeting.

The nudelchin (nomads of the steppe) are a hospitable folk, eager to share a drink and a laugh with a passing stranger, and encountering them was a highlight of my cycle trek from Mongolia's capital city, Ulan Bator, to Erenhot, on the border with China.

The vast, empty landscape they inhabit is in sharp contrast to the sprawling capital where my journey began. But even there, amid the 1950s Soviet-era architecture, the influence of Genghis was obvious.

Everywhere were hotels, restaurants, and so on, bearing the great Khan's name and roughly half the Museum of Mongolian National History was dedicated to the life and accomplishments of one of history's most famous conquerors.

Alcoholism, especially among men, was another clearly visible, but less savoury, aspect of urban Mongolian society. Cheap vodka is readily available and many Mongolian men I met were clearly inebriated, even in the morning.

This, combined with high unemployment, probably account for the noticeably high levels of petty crime. My pockets were picked more than once, and some perpetrators were so brazen as to still have their hands in my pockets after I detected their intentions.

As soon as my preparations were completed, it was time to leave the city for the wilderness.

Included in the many belongings I had somehow managed to stow in the limited carrying capacity of my bicycle was a wooden axe handle. I had read the nudelchin kept large, fearsome dogs, which were sometimes rabid, to protect their livestock from predators.

It was too late for rabies inoculations so imperative to carry an instrument to ward off any attacks. The axe handle proved invaluable.

Within minutes of leaving my guest house - needless to say it was named the Genghis - the sealed city roads ended. From here on it would be dirt roads.

As there are no road signs, even in the city, and no reliable road maps available, my only means of navigation were a compass and the single track railway line which runs from Ulan Bator to Erenhot.

Within an hour of leaving the comparatively congested city limits, I found myself in the tranquillity of the sweeping grassland steppe people usually associate with Mongolia. The cloudless blue skies appeared to stretch to eternity, giving an overpowering sense of freedom.

Each day, as the sun set to a glowing golden ball on the horizon, I would examine the area for a suitable spot to make camp for the night. Not wanting to attract attention from herdsmen's dogs, I would pitch my tent far from any visible signs of human habitation.

Evening meals would consist of simple pasta or noodle dishes cooked on a small propane burner.

Although daytime temperatures were often around the high 20s, at night they plummeted to zero, making a good sleeping bag and warm clothes essential.

Camping out on the Mongolian prairies is truly a magical experience. Any worries or anxieties of everyday living are quickly obliterated under the immensity of the night skies, ablaze with stars as far as the eye can see. Time seems to lose all meaning in the intense stillness of the sleeping Mongolian steppe.

the eye can see. Time seems to lose all meaning in the intense stillness of the sleeping Mongolian steppe.

Much of the Mongolian population still lives the traditional nomadic lifestyle they have practised since before the days of Genghis Khan. The nudelchins depend on the herds of livestock - mainly horses, sheep, camels and goats - which graze on the coarse and sparsely scattered vegetation of the steppe.

These animals provide the necessities of a predominantly subsistence lifestyle. The nudelchins are big on meat and dairy products. Boiled mutton, usually in the form of goulash, accompanied by an assortment of dried goats-milk cheese, all washed down with a generous-sized mug of tsai (milk-based tea with salt) appeared to be the staple diet.

The steppe-dwellers live in gers, circular tents made of felt with smoke stacks protruding from their centres. These white domes are dotted throughout the prairies, contrasting with the green hues of the surrounding grasslands.

Along the way it was common to see grazing herds of wild horses and camels, which would sometimes wander over to inspect the unusual sight of a brightly clad, two-wheeled curiosity grunting its way across the steppe.

There were also numerous marmots, eagles, vultures and, in the evenings, kangaroo rats. And although wolves are natives of the steppes, I didn't encounter any, which was probably fortunate, although a little disappointing.

The most demanding part was travelling through the heart of the Gobi Desert. In places, the dirt trails all but vanished into deep sand pockets which were simply impassable on a bicycle. The only option was to dismount and push and I progressed slowly under the intense midday sun.

Fortunately, before I hit the Gobi I met a Frenchman going the same way, also on a bicycle. Having someone to air your frustrations with certainly made it more bearable.

Even more fortunately, as exhaustion grew, so did the other traffic, signalling that we were approaching the border crossing into China. Finally, 15 days and 750km later, we had reached Erenhot, with the luxury of smooth, sealed roads.

But imagine our disappointment when, after cycling all that way, we were told at the border checkpoint that we weren't allowed to cross into China on bicycles. Instead we had to make the crossing on the back of a couple of Mongolian jeeps heading to the markets in Erenhot for supplies. What ignominy. But what a relief.

When to go

The best time to visit Mongolia is during the northern summer. The country's biggest event, the Nadaam Festival, is usually July 11-13 and includes competitions in wrestling, archery and horse riding.

Visas

You must get a visa before arriving in Mongolia. A single entry/exit 30-day visa is US$25 ($37.30).

Currency

The Mongolian currency unit is the Tughrik. NZ$1 = Tg820. Credit cards and travellers' cheques are accepted in most banks and hotels.

Getting there

Flight Centre has return flights to Ulaan Bataar ex-Auckland, starting from $2229 (plus taxes, etc).

Flight Centre also has a two-week Gobi and Nomads tour of Mongolia for from $2690 per person ex-Ulaan Baatar. This takes in the Khongorin Els and Moltsog Els sand dunes, the ruined monasteries of Ongyn Khiid, the traditional nomad settlement of Kharkhorin, the town of Tsertserleg, Lake Ugii and Khogno Khan Mountain. It also includes a camel trek and six nights in a traditional ger. For details and bookings phone Flight Centre on 0800 FLIGHTS (0800 35 44 48).