In praise of Johannesburg

For John Simpson, gritty, sunny Johannesburg is South Africa's golden city.

In South Africa, foreigners regard Cape Town as the gold standard. It means Table Mountain, the Bo-Kaap, the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel, antiques shopping in Long Street, dinner in Camps Bay. And because we like to play good city/bad city, we put Johannesburg on the negative side of the ledger.

Absolute rubbish. Over the years, I've lived in Johannesburg and spent lots of time in Cape Town and, although I love the Cape, Johannesburg is the place I'd settle in with pleasure.

After a couple of weeks in Cape Town, I find myself getting restless and slightly bored.

Maybe it's just a bit too beautiful. Maybe it's the way people drive: dozily, down the middle of the road, signalling left and going straight ahead. In Johannesburg the cars swarm past on both sides, like white-tip sharks along a reef.

The shops open earlier and stay open later, there are more of them and they have a wider range of goods. People come to your house at the time they say they will. Restaurants are more varied and better designed and even the fish often seems better, though it's 1600km inland.

To me, Cape Town feels like a really lovely retirement home, while Jozi - as people tend to call it nowadays (Jo'burg apparently has a faintly colonial whiff to it, even though that's the name that has been used by everyone from President Zuma to Nelson Mandela) - is noisy and challenging and full of life. Above all, the Johannesburg weather is absolutely superb. No nasty winds blowing for days on end, no driving rain, just clear skies and lovely temperatures.

But what about the crime? That is what people immediately ask. Well, it's true that it's really high in Johannesburg, which takes in Soweto, Alexandra and Hillbrow. I've not been robbed in Johannesburg; but a gang of tough teenagers once gathered round me like wasps in Cape Town, and I escaped only by jumping into the traffic and running away.

Agreed, the murder rate is still far too high in both cities, but it is unquestionably dropping. And you aren't aware of it in either. Johannesburg is a lovely, open, green garden city, where everyone smiles and treats you nicely.

I don't want to put you off Cape Town; I just want you to branch out and see Johannesburg as well. Visit the grand old imperial centre of the city, much more relaxed and pleasant these days.

Sample the restaurants around the Market Theatre. Drive to Melrose Arch and watch the glitterati hanging out in the bars and cafes.

Head for a delightful old colonial place like Melville - less fashionable now, but still full of charming little shops, including one of South Africa's best antiquarian bookshops.

Wander down the tree-lined avenues, with the brilliant flowers bursting out from every garden, thriving in the finest climate the entire planet can boast.

Then tell me if you think Cape Town, for all its glories, can match the buzz and glamour of the golden city of Johannesburg.

IF YOU GO

Getting there with Qantas: Fly Economy, Premium Economy or Business with Qantas to Johannesburg via Sydney. Flights include all the frills, with food, wine, entertainment and a checked luggage allowance.

Current offer: Economy return from $2049. Book now at qantas.com. Offer ends 9.59pm, April 1, 2015. Conditions apply.