Jim Eagles: Use your head - and a guide

COMMENT


Today's feature on cruising up the River Nile is the first in a series of articles on the Middle East which will appear over the next few months.

Hopefully they will convey what a fascinating region it is: incredible ancient monuments, fascinating cultures, extraordinary landscapes, wonderful food and (mostly) delightful people.

But for most people the big issue about the Middle East is probably not whether it is an interesting place to visit. After all, tourists have been going there for 3000 years and coming away awed.

The big question for most of us is simple: Is it safe?

My personal answer, after going there, is: Yes, or at least safe enough for a sensible person to go.

Of course there are risks in touring the Middle East. There is a risk of having a traffic accident. There is a real risk of getting ill.

There is a risk of being robbed. There is a risk of being overwhelmed by the heat, dirt and eternal cries for baksheesh. And there is the risk of a terrorist attack.

Most of those risks can be greatly reduced, if not eliminated, by taking a few sensible precautions.

There's not much you can do about the crazy driving - any more than you can guarantee you'll get to Auckland International Airport safely - but you obviously reduce the risk of an accident if you travel with a reputable company rather than a chap in the market with a car and a good deal.

I was terrified by our Jordanian Tourist Board driver, but his response to our cringing was to say: "Have faith in me, guys, I've been doing this for 18 years and haven't had an accident yet." And, sure enough, we arrived safely.

Most people seem to get sick when they go to Egypt but it's much less likely to happen if you wash your hands regularly, take a pack of disinfectant wipes for when the facilities are primitive, buy your food and drink only from places that look reputable, select dishes that have been freshly cooked, and be cautious about salads.

Pretty basic, maybe, but it worked for us. In fact I arrived back from three weeks there having put on weight.

The risk of being robbed in the Middle East is probably no greater than in New Zealand.

Sure, there are thieves who specialise in preying on tourists, but if you leave your valuables in a safe when you can, don't flash your money around and store it somewhere inaccessible to pickpockets, listen to advice if you're thinking of taking a camel ride, and don't wander down empty back streets in the middle of the night, then you should be fine.

Most Middle East countries are desperate for tourist dollars and tourist areas are heavily policed to ensure you go home without having any bad experiences.

In addition, in most of the region evening is family time, so if you fancy a stroll through the local market after dinner you can enjoy watching the family groups and feel comforted that their presence makes you even safer.

That said, Egypt, in particular, is a difficult place in which to travel even for experienced travellers. It's chaotic, mindlessly bureaucratic, dirty, hot, noisy and very, very different.

Unless you're a tough young backpacker I believe it's one place where you're better off taking a package tour.

That doesn't mean travelling with a busload of narrow-minded whingers who want overseas to be just like home. It's not hideously expensive to travel with a small group or even to take an individually guided tour. And it's so worth it.

When you get off the plane at Cairo and find yourself discharged into its seething, yelling terminal turmoil, it is very, very comforting to see a sign with your name on it and have someone conduct you through the confusion to your waiting transport. It's also worthwhile spending a bit more to get a reasonable hotel or cruise boat. It's much easier to cope with the stress of heat, souvenir sellers and other tourists if you have a cool, tranquil, secure refuge.

And a good guide - and all the ones we experienced were good - can both add to the pleasure of visiting the tourist spots and provide a fund of invaluable advice.

Finally, while you obviously have to be aware of the threat of terrorist action, there's no need to overreact to it.

Although the most active terrorists at the moment are Muslim, and the Middle East is largely Islamic, that doesn't mean countries like Egypt, Jordan or the United Arab Emirates are automatically terrorist stamping grounds.

If you look at the roll-call of terrorist attacks in the past year or two then - Iraq excepted - you're no more likely to be hit by one in the Middle East than in Asia, Europe or America.

I'd certainly go again - like a shot - although maybe that isn't the best way to put it.