KEY POINTS:
When we arrived at Tokyo's famous Senso-ji temple a big crowd of worshippers was gathered around the giant bronze incense burner in the forecourt all trying to waft the smoke on to themselves.
The incense, considered the breath of the gods, is believed to have curative powers so the object is to get it on to whatever part of your body needs repairs.
Most of the other pilgrims seemed to be aiming to rub the incense on to their stomachs. I tried to get some on my head in the hope of encouraging my hair to grow again.
It didn't work.
I also waved some on to my legs, which were rather stiff after an hour of sitting on the floor at the nearby Daikokuya restaurant. This time I had more success.
While we were eating I thought it was worth the pain of dining in traditional fashion because the tempura meal - prawns and vegetables cooked in a light batter - was delicious.
But when we got up my Western knees refused to function properly and made clicking noises as I walked.
Fortunately the process of getting my legs into the smoke freed things up a bit, which is just as well because Asakusa, where Senso-ji is located, is one of the most interesting parts of Tokyo to explore on foot.
The temple was founded 1400 years ago after a tiny golden statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, was fished out of the nearby Sumida River by two poor fisherman.
The main temple building is said to house the statue which is considered too sacred to be put on public display.
But the complex also includes a Shinto shrine dedicated to the two fishermen and their overlord - Sanja-sama, or the shrine of the three guardians - which is the focal point of Tokyo's biggest festival held in the third week of May.
Senso-ji is probably the most popular temple for locals, as well as being a huge tourist drawcard, so it's always crowded and the area has a permanent carnival atmosphere.
As well as crowding around the incense burner, worshippers also queue to drink the water from the well, cast coins into the coffers of the main temple, clap and bow in search of a blessing from the goddess, buy charms or obtain paper fortunes.
Three times a day a thunderous salvo of drums signals the arrival of a parade of priests, who chant prayers in front of the main altar.
Outside the temple precinct the action is even noisier with yelling touts offering guided tours and rickshaw rides (a 30-minute ride for two is about $100).
All around are hundreds of stalls, shops and restaurants offering an amazing array of things to eat, drink, wear or take home as souvenirs.
For $3, my guide bought us a bag of 10 traditional sweets shaped like the shrine and still warm from the oven.
I added to my collection of gods by acquiring, for about $20, plump and jolly Ebisu, Japan's god of success, prosperity and - the bit that interested me - foreigners and fishing.
You can also get everything from Japanese dolls, paper fans and beautiful kimonos to formal wigs, hair combs and the savoury rice crackers for which the area is famous.
It's probably the best place in Tokyo to buy souvenirs and an enormously entertaining place to just wander around and watch the action.
And, just to add a little piquancy, all this fun goes on under the disapproving gaze of the large, red-faced and angry-looking gods of thunder and wind who guard the temple's famous Thunder Gate.
I think it may be just as well that these days the gods are confined in wire cages because you get the impression things are just a little too jolly for their taste and, even with my knee restored by the incense, I wouldn't want to try to outrun them if they got loose.
* Jim Eagles travelled to Japan as guest of Japan's Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
