In the Mexican capital, ancient history is ever-present - there are Aztec ruins in the metro, for Tlaloc's sake - and interacting with the now. Mexico City's food scene is no exception, as chefs including Enrique Olvera earn global applause by serving thoroughly modern cuisine made from ancient ingredients. But for every elegant, multicourse tasting menu, there's a $1 street taco served on a handmade, freshly pressed corn tortilla, dripping with grease and love.
Greet the day like a colonial-era aristocrat at the always-busy Azul Historico in the interior courtyard of the chic Hotel Downtown.
The handsome 17th-century building was once owned by the Counts of Miravalle, who made their fortune mining gold, and it now hosts one of chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's three signature Mexico City restaurants serving artfully presented Mexican classics. Amid the trees and columns of the arcaded patio, tuck into dishes such as chilaquiles and molletes - or huevos motuleños (US$5.50), two free-range fried eggs bathed in tomato sauce and served with wedges of fried plantains. Afterward, you're ready to explore the Zocalo and the ruins of the Templo Mayora few blocks away.
Street food goes far beyond the taco in Mexico City. On most corners, you can find a señora grilling up anything from huaraches (sandal-shaped masa boats topped with beans, meat, lettuce and cheese) to tlacoyos (thick, blue-corn tortillas in the shape of a football stuffed with requesón cheese or beans) in the shade of a tarp.
