Thomas Bywater spends a day circling over Cardrona assessing the mood on the mountain.
There are few modes of transport less elegant than a chairlift.
The equal and opposite reaction to Newton’s Third Law of Motion: they are proof that what comes down, must first go up. It’s an indignity that skiers must endure.
So, why would anyone in their right mind spend a whole day at a ski field, sat in a metal seat, high above the snow?
When cramped under the bar of a quad chairlift, even the most elegant of snowboarders and carvers look like a car boot sale. It’s a mangle of sticks, backpacks, Gopros and strangers’ elbows. Still, snow enthusiasts will queue patiently to ride them.
Despite chill winds, poorly-angled snow cannons, and the ever-present danger of dropping your belongings into the white abyss - you’ll struggle to find anyone in a bad mood while riding one. They provide an enforced pause, a chance to talk, compare notes, or simply marvel at the view. Skiers are generally happy to chat.
They are the perfect place to get the mood of a mountain.
Armed with this insight, on Monday I spent from first tracks until last lift riding the Cardrona ‘Chondola’ and the freshly opened Captain’s Express, asking visitors what had brought them to Wānaka.
With lifts barely started turning and a late, rocky start to the South Island ski season, I interviewed fellow passengers on the uplift.
I shared a chair with Russian-expat ski enthusiasts on a mission to ski the world, and a family reunion that turned into a snowboard lesson.
Following the school holidays and midweek - the majority of visitors were from Australia but the reasons and places that brought them to Cardrona were varied.
Here is what I learned about why people still turn up to ski.
Matt and Alison from Newcastle, NSW had convinced non-skiing family members to join them on a trip to Cardrona. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Jarrod and Ashton, Sydney - Some students steer clear of the Uni Ski Soc
The first chair is shared with two students from Sydney. Originally friends from high school, this year they’ve skipped the university ski trip to do their own thing. Though currently the mission is to return a radio handset to lost property, “dropped by some kid in ski school”.
“There’s so much variety compared to Australia,” Ashton says.
“We had heard a little bit about the snow conditions, but if you look at it now It’s beautiful,” says Jarrod. “We missed the traffic but got the snow.”
Ashton says while there was a big ski culture at their university, they chose to plan their own trip.
“I went on the Sydney uni trip last year but it was a bit too crowded for me - with 70 people in a little box.”
Andrew and Dimitry, Sydney - Skiers will travel vast distances for snow
“We’re from Sydney - originally from Russia,” says Dimitry, whose passion for skiing has taken him around the world.
“We’ve skied almost everywhere in Europe, but actually never in Australia, no. It’s too crowded and so expensive.”
“We’ve been to Snowy Mountains once, but we didn’t even ski there,” agrees Andrew. “It’s kind of meh.”
When planning a ski trip in Australia, New Zealand still has a draw and that’s largely an economic one, says Dimitry.
“For us in Sydney, we have to drive five hours to Snowy Mountains; it’s a three-hour flight to Queenstown. Passes and accommodation cost so much more, so this pays off the airfare.”
Although it isn’t just the Queenstown resorts they visit. The Russian expatriates say they’ve adventured as far as Christchurch and the club fields.
“Outside of Queenstown, we love Mt Hutt.”
“Mt Hutt was really good,” agrees Andrew. “When it closed we went to Mt Cheeseman, last year and stayed in Methven.”
A good system: Snow instructors Sophie and Cam were fans of the controversial lift caps. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Sophie and Cam, Wānaka - The controversial lift pass cap is popular with Cardrona staff
“We’re Wānaka locals,” says Sophie. Though originally from Australia, she is working the season at the Cardrona “Ski kindy”. Cam too is a snowboard instructor, originally from Taupo, and they are enjoying a day off. After the school holiday rush, they’ve earned it.
“It was pretty chill, compared to the last two seasons,” says Cam. “They staffed us up a little bit better. Obviously, it seemed busy because we didn’t have much open, but with the cap they put on it seemed a lot more manageable.”
This year is the first the resort has been running a cap on admissions to manage numbers on the mountain. While there had been some pushback from visitors, those operating the mountain say it has made a real difference on the mountain.
“It’s a good system,” says Cam. Currently, their classes are mostly Australian learners.
Matt and Alison, Newcastle - Families learn to ski at different speeds
“It’s my brother-in-law’s 50th birthday this week so we came to stay in Wānaka,” says Matt, who is joined by several family members on the full six-seater lift.
“There’s a few first-timers amongst us. We’re all skiers and snowboarders, but the extended family has a few learners.”
“I’m already faster than mum!” chirps up one of the young riders.
The family were coming to Wānaka regardless, explains Matt, but the skiing is nice to have.
Dave, McLaren Vale, Adelaide - It’s been a rough start to snow season, Aussies had it worse
Former wine worker turned consultant, David was over with family visiting old friends in the vineyards.
“We’re just on a family holiday, we used to live in Blenheim. We haven’t been back for about five years again so it’s a great opportunity to catch up with some old friends and finish off with a bit of a ski trip.”
Over skiing with three daughters and his wife, he has family members who have worked in skiing in Australia, though he describes his own ski holidays as “sporadic.”
“This is day four, the last day.” The best skiing had been at Treble Cone and Coronet Peak, he said, and they had spent the weekend with no real plan, following the conditions on the day.
“We’ve had a couple of really nice days and a few colder, windy days - that’s dictated where the best skiing’s been.”
The safety bar is a shared responsibility when loading or unloading. Some dare-devils will leave it up, just for the thrill of living on the edge. (Please use the bar!) Others leave it down until the very last minute.
When dropping the bar check with other riders - especially if it’s one with pinchy dividers, in between the seats. Oh, and remember to unstrap your poles and take off backpacks, or prepare for an uncomfortable ride.
Music on the slopes
Some people love nothing better than ‘carving to choons’, blaring from a bluetooth speaker. All power to you but, when you’re not setting off avalanches in the backcountry, it’s considered common courtesy to turn down the noise when on a chair.
Some ski fields discourage the wearing of earphones and personal music players on the slopes. Several US ski resorts say in their “responsibility code” that the use of headphones is a danger and can distract riders from what’s en piste.
That said, speakers blaring out music from a backpack is a common bugbear.
Plan your escape
If you’re planning to offload on the right of the chair, don’t sit on the left. The last-minute pile-up and general chaos of getting off the chair can be avoided if you don’t cut across other skiers.
A nice, compact queue can speed up lifts. Getting too close can lead to treading on planks and slowing everything down to a standstill. (A trick learned by every determined ski-schooler.) Not to mention the scratches and chips you leave in a pair of brand new custom Lacroix. Be kind, go for the gaps and stick with your ski buddies.
Oh, and chill out, folks! Remember you are on holiday to have fun.
