Beautiful view on Sultanahmet Blue Mosque at sunset in Istanbul. Photo / 123rf
Beautiful view on Sultanahmet Blue Mosque at sunset in Istanbul. Photo / 123rf
Istanbul in one day is no easy feat in a city as captivating as this, but with a little nous, a punchy tour and plenty of enthusiasm, you can really make the most of it, writes Lorna Riley
A man, walking with his child through the park, runs up to my daughter. Breathless, he says in broken English “You are so beautiful!”, before returning to his son and continuing his day.
We’re in Istanbul, the city formerly known as Constantinople (nee Byzantium) - Turkey’s largest port and the most populous city in Europe with almost 16 million people calling it home. Despite the size, and despite the attention my blonde daughter attracts everywhere we go, we feel perfectly safe here exploring on our own. We’ve only got 24 hours in Istanbul on our one-week Aegean Sunsets cruise aboard Holland America Line’s Oosterdam, and as it’s our only overnight stay in a port, we’re determined to make the most of it.
First impressions
Istanbul is the only city in the world to straddle two continents: Europe and Asia, with the two sides of the city separated by the Bosphorus Strait. As we cruised into port, we lost count of the many mosque minarets and multiple Turkish flags flying from various vantage points.
Upon berthing a couple of hours earlier, we’d heard asr, the trilling call to afternoon prayer broadcast over loudspeakers across the city, from our verandah, and even for secular visitors such as ourselves, the spiritual sound is deeply moving.
The Galataport Istanbul stands as the world's first underground cruise ship terminal. Photo / 123rf
Against the backdrop of ancient buildings, the Galataport Istanbul provides a modern contrast. It’s the world’s first underground cruise ship terminal, and large at almost 30,000 square metres, but its clever design means it’s as efficient as it is aesthetic. Beyond is Istanbul Modern, Turkey’s first museum of modern and contemporary art, with eateries, a park, and a waterfront promenade.
Turkish delights
Thoughts turn to how to spend our only evening in Istanbul. Lucy and I opt for a walk through the open-air mall by Galataport, and through Tophane Park (which houses an 18th-century fountain - Mahmud-Han - and a beautiful sculptural playground). Both are clearly a hit with locals and tourists alike, with many family groups enjoying the late Saturday afternoon sunshine.
Tophane Park houses an 18th-century fountain and a beautiful sculptural playground. Photo / Getty Images
We dodge hectic traffic, seemingly unencumbered by road rules, and wander cobbled alleyways past ancient artisan shops and modern tattoo parlours. All our exploring has worked up an appetite, and as soon as we decide to find a local restaurant, we turn a corner and there, like a jewel, is the colourful facade of Arada Endulus. A peek inside reveals sumptuous cushions and myriad Turkish lamps - I wonder if it’s possible to fall in love with lights? I decide it is and we take a seat. At this point, it dawns on us that Arada is a Lebanese restaurant rather than a Turkish one, but by now we’ve seen the pictures on the menu and we’re all in. There’s a slight hitch when the online ordering system requires us to join the restaurant’s Wi-Fi and our English keyboards won’t input the password correctly. Our dashing waiter may not speak much of our language, but he clearly recognises our confusion, takes our phones and connects us up, and we’re away. The dishes are colourful, healthy and most pleasing of all, absolutely delicious - and we’re talked into the traditional honey-sweetened tea to finish.
As we settle the bill (a modest $52 for two, including drinks, using PayWave which is ubiquitous in Istanbul), our waiter confides that he’d love to visit New Zealand but “I am afraid of the sharks”. Clearly our tourism board has some work to do in this part of the world.
From lowkey to partying with the locals, Istanbul is a city that accommodates all travel styles. Photo / Anna Berdnik; Unsplash
We feel like we’ve been quite adventurous, but discover the following morning that a young member of our tour party had gone clubbing by himself, using Google Translate to communicate with the locals and having a blast until the wee small hours - you could say while we had meze, he got messy. Istanbul is certainly a city with a lot on offer, whatever your penchant.
DAY-TRIPPING
Waking up in this stunning port is a real treat, and we breakfast on our balcony to soak up the atmosphere and drink in the view, before climbing aboard our coach for the longest shore excursion of our cruise: a 7.5-hour Best of Istanbul tour.
Aylin is a superb guide, knowledgeable and with the ability to tell a good yarn. She also proves an expert at shepherding her charges. This is a big city, with the tourist attractions extremely crowded, and at times Aylin resembles a mother duck rounding up her errant ducklings. She seems delighted each time we reboard our coach without losing anyone.
We begin in the Old City, which reflects cultural influences of the many empires that once ruled here. In the Sultanahmet district, the open-air, Roman-era Hippodrome was for centuries the site of chariot races, and Egyptian obelisks also remain.
Istanbul's Old City is a magnet for tourists and reflects cultural influences of the many empires that once ruled here. Photo / Igor Sporynin; Unsplash
The Blue Mosque is breathtaking from the outside. I’ve forgotten to bring a head covering, and my dress is just a fraction short (women’s hair, shoulders and knees must be covered to enter any mosque); however, basic scarves and skirts are offered at the entrance to slip over any immodest attire, and shoe bags provided as we remove our shoes. Inside is even more stunning, with the mosque named for the vivid Iznik tiles that line its interior.
Istanbul, one of the highlight ports of call on a cruise with Holland America. Photo / Getty Images
Then it’s onto Topkapi Palace, official residence of the Ottoman Sultans which overlooks the Golden Horn estuary. We wander through courts, mosques and pavilions at our own pace, and a large museum full of extraordinary treasures: armour and weaponry to jewellery and crockery, even beds - all exquisitely decorated with jewels and enamelling.
Our tour then takes us to lunch at The Green House Garden. It’s part of the Hagia Sofia Mansions, Curio Collection by Hilton hotel, and seated in the shade beside the impressive fountain we sample local delights while making friends with another mother and daughter, fellow cruise guests from Pennsylvania.
Hagia Sophia, one of the most famous mosques of Istanbul, Turkey. Photo / 123rf
Next on the itinerary is the highly anticipated jewel in Turkey’s Byzantine crown: Hagia Sophia. This splendid Church of Divine Wisdom was originally built in the sixth century and was lovingly restored in the 1900s, reflecting the true history of this glorious city. We cover our heads this time with well-priced and beautiful silk scarves we pick up at a nearby stall while waiting in the queue for our tour group to be admitted; others take the opportunity to enjoy a cooling icecream to combat the effects of the hot sun. While the Hagia Sophia has now been rehallowed as a mosque, the place remains open for visitors outside of prayer times and remains a Unesco World Heritage Site, despite concerns given its various incarnations as a church, museum, and mosque. Once inside, we’re once again wowed by the ornate arches, mosaics, and giant dome that adorn this architectural marvel.
Ordinarily, the final stop on this Best of Istanbul tour would be the world-famous Grand Bazaar; however given that it’s a Sunday, the Bazaar is not open (check your itinerary if your heart is set on visiting, as it often is closed for various religious holidays too). But Aylin promises us the next best thing: time to shop at the Spice Bazaar, located in the Eminonu quarter of the Fatih district and home to 85 stores.
Buyer beware: Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is not open on Sundays. Photo / Thomas George; Unsplash
Sugar and spice (and fake designer nice)
The substitution does not disappoint, with the spices and teas on offer a feast for the senses, and numerous samples of Turkish Delight (and other morsels) proffered at each stall. You can bring these products back to New Zealand; just remember to declare them.
There are more declarations to my daughter as we wander through the markets, and several references to Game of Thrones (which is bemusing as neither of us have seen an episode, but apparently there’s a character that Lucy resembles). My love affair with Turkish lamps is reignited, and this time requited; after a small amount of haggling, one particularly beautiful cobalt glass example is mine. I can already see that excess baggage fees may be on the horizon.
Turkish decorative lamps for sale on Grand Bazaar at Istanbul, Turkey. Photo / 123rf
We have the most fun in a shop that sells designer goods: Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Chanel and more. All fake, and all quite convincing. I chose a couple of bags and a belt, and I’m so happy with the prices I don’t even attempt to bargain. Our man isn’t having this though, and insists on reducing the price on each item anyway. A wonderful experience - and later at NZ Fashion Week, I’ll receive compliments on my “designer” Dior much to my amusement.
Feral felines
No recollection of Istanbul is complete without a mention of the cats. Everywhere we went, streets, shops, and mosques were awash with street cats. However, these are no ordinary feral felines.
A cat lies in Sultanahmet Square. Photo / 123rf
Instead, they are treated with love by the locals, with the small alleyways littered with tiny kennels, and food bowls set up under leafy trees. There’s even been a documentary made about Istanbulites’ cat obsession - look up Kedi. It’s all rather endearing.
Gule, gule, Istanbul
All too soon, our 24 hours in Istanbul have come to an end. It’s been our favourite stop of the entire Aegean Sunsets cruise, and we promise ourselves - and this stunning city - that we’ll be back. As we sail away, we echo back to this special place the words that Lucy heard the previous evening: “you are so beautiful”. There’s no false flattery here - it’s simply true.
The writer travelled with Holland America Cruise Line. Visitors can also fly from Auckland to Istanbul Airport with Qatar Airways and Emirates with one stopover.
