The Maleku population is only around 650 people. Photo / Lebo Lukewarm
The Maleku population is only around 650 people. Photo / Lebo Lukewarm
Brett Atkinson joins Intrepid Travel for a week-long guided journey to three different indigenous communities in Costa Rica
On a quiet Saturday morning in downtown San Jose, the relaxed capital city of Costa Rica, I’m experiencing a welcome that’s both surprising and familiar. On behalf of the Central American country’s indigenous communities, Intrepid Travel’s local guide Pedro Flores is performing a Welcome to Country. It’s a formal acknowledgment undoubtedly inspired by Intrepid’s Australian roots, but also recognition of the history, significance and growing respect for the diverse indigenous groups scattered across Costa Rica.
Valley view on the way to Boruca village. Photo / Brett Atkinson
My first understanding of Costa Rica’s indigenous communities comes a day earlier at San Jose’s National Museum, an imposing crenellated structure that was the country’s military barracks until the army was abolished in 1949. A simple map shows the contemporary extent of Costa Rica’s indigenous groups, now just a few small shaded areas amid the country’s more homogenous population largely descended from Spanish colonial settlers arriving from the 16th century. Less than 2 per cent of Costa Rica’s population now identify as indigenous, with eight main tribal groups living in 24 separate autonomous territories throughout the country. Loss of their language, customs and traditional lands have been ongoing challenges, but change is slowly emerging from growing awareness of their struggle.
A Saturday morning visit to a nearby combination of gallery and artists’ co-operative is ideal preparation before embarking on a week-long journey incorporating visits to three different indigenous communities. Opened in 2010, Chietón Morén – named after an indigenous Boruca word meaning “fair trade” – represents traditional artisans from around the country. Work from all of Costa Rica’s indigenous groups - including Boruca wooden masks and bold ceramic pottery from the Chorotega of Costa Rica’s remote Nicoya Peninsula - are sold without any markup, and Chietón Morén’s volunteer guide, Ruth Guzmán, confirms many Indigenous craftspeople travel to the city to deal directly with the organisation known as “Un Buen Trato” in Spanish.
Boruca masks are renowned for their craftsmanship. Photo / Lebo Lukewarm
Leaving San Jose, it’s a mountain journey negotiating misty cloud-forest roads to Centro Etnoturístico El Descanso, part of a Bröran indigenous village community alongside the Térraba River. Waking up in simple homestay cottages after an after-dark arrival, our group is shown around the leafy hamlet by headman Jeffrey Villanueva, proud of land that’s been occupied by his clan for “thousands of years” since migrating southwest across the Central American land bridge from Panama’s Caribbean Coast. On a centuries-old grinding stone, Villanueva prepares freshly-roasted cacao beans for an energising round of hot chocolate, and explains that in ancient times, the now-humble beans were worth more than gold, and chocolate was revered as the elixir of the gods. Equally venerable is the annual Bröran festival of Sögra Cuomgrá, held in late December and enlivened by El Danza del Toro y La Mula (the Dance of the Bull and the Mule), a stylised representation of the elemental battle between the Mule (the Bröran people), and the Bull (the coming of the Spanish). In another nearby Bröran village, we’re participants in a traditional mask-making workshop, helping to craft ornate masks from teak and more easily rendered balsa wood. Finely shaped, some representing jaguars and toucans, and finished in vibrant colours, Bröran masks are a highlight of December’s annual festival face-off between good and evil.
Cacao beans are freshly roasted and ground using a centuries-old grinding stone. Photo / Lebo Lukewarm
Celebrating a similar festival dance where Spanish settlers are harangued and harassed by “los diablitos” (”little devils”) are the Boruca people, centred on a verdant valley 40 minutes drive south on winding roads high above a spectacular escarpment. Borucan mask-making is also renowned, but we’re here to learn about their tradition of textile making. Utilising natural products including turmeric and herbs from village gardens, shades effortlessly spanning the Pantone colour spectrum – including crimson, indigo and orange – are all made colour-fast with a squeeze of lime juice before being used to dye natural threads. Crafted meticulously on a hand-loom, the resulting textiles are as authentic and vibrant as the Boruca’s colourful hand-painted masks.
Boruca masks are for their vibrant colours and intricate detailing. The masks are a highlight of the annual Boruca festival. Photo / Lebo Lukewarm
Our final stop is at a Palenque Margarita, a Maleku community, and one of three indigenous Maleku palenque (villages) gathered around the town of Guatuso north of the dormant volcanic cone of Arenal. Following historical tragedies, including enforced slavery by Nicaraguan rubber barons in the late 19th century, the Maleku’s population dropped precipitously to around 250, and the community’s current population is only around 650 people, making the Maleku the smallest of Costa Rica’s indigenous groups.
Despite their numbers, they’ve been successful in protecting their culture, and Palenque Margarita’s headman, Jaquima, confirms the Maleku language is now taught at the local village school. He’s known as Elias Castro in Spanish, but prefers his Maleku moniker, translating to “someone who looks after nature” in his indigenous tongue. After a crash course in everyday Maleku – “Capi Capi” combined with a gentle tap on a friend’s shoulder translates to “Hello” - Jaquima introduces his nephew, Antu Tijinin (aka Adrian). In softly spoken English tinged with subtle humour, we’re given more insight into one of Costa Rica’s most resilient indigenous cultures.
Drums stretched tight with iguana skin are still used to communicate between Palenque Margarita, Palenque Tonjibe and Palenque El Sol - “This is our cellphone” explains Antu Tijinin – and slender painted tubes filled with a handful of gravel are revealed as the Maleku’s secret weapon for stress relief. Known as palos de lluvia (rain-sticks), the simple but ingenious devices perfectly replicate the sound of gentle rain. “This is how I like to relax” confirms Antu Tijinin.
He’s also a qualified nurse and, on a leisurely stroll to Palenque Margarita’s reforestation project, Antu Tijinin explains he’s set his sights on becoming a doctor in the community. In the shaded forest, part of the Maleku’s total landholding of 3000ha, Jaquima again takes the lead, guiding us individually to plant delicate seedlings of endangered trees and further consolidate an essential project first launched in 1988.
Maleku's "rain-sticks" replicate the sound of gentle rain. Photo / Brett Atkinson
Increased birdlife – including colourful toucans – and the recent discovery of puma footprints in the forest’s floor of leafy litter are both testament to the Maleku’s ongoing resilience in a new century.
CHECKLIST
COSTA RICA
GETTING THERE
Fly with Air New Zealand from Auckland to Houston and continue on United Airlines to the Costa Rican capital of San Jose.
DETAILS
Intrepid offer several different itineraries in Costa Rica, ranging from nine days to 15 days, and costing from around $1900 to $2500 per person. Their Premium Costa Rica experience (nine days, around $5700) includes superior accommodation options and the company of Intrepid’s most experienced and highly-rated local guides. As the world’s largest travel B Corp organisation, each Intrepid departure is offset for carbon neutrality.
