How Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital city, is fighting off over-tourism

Citizens in Kyoto's geisha district have been introducing new ways to push back against perceived over-tourism in the area. Photo / Getty Images

Japan’s ancient capital of Kyoto, long a popular destination for tourists, is closing off some alleys consisting of private property in its famous geisha district because of complaints about misbehaving visitors.

Tourists crowd the narrow, quaint streets of the area called Gion, often following tour guides who show people around and lecture for long hours, local district official Isokazu Ota said on Friday.

“We are going to put up signs in April that tell tourists to stay out of our private streets,” he told the Associated Press.

The signs will say in both Japanese and English, “This is a private road, so you are not allowed to drive through it”, although the keep-out warning is aimed mainly at pedestrians, not cars, as the Japanese wording refers generically to “passing through”.

“There will be a fine of ¥10,000,” the signs continue, which comes to about $70 under recent currency conversion rates.

The ban covers just several blocks of Gion. The district’s public streets will remain open to tourists, so the area and the rest of Kyoto will still be teeming with visitors, both from Japan and around the world.

Gion’s outrage highlights brewing resentment at what many feel is “over-tourism”, even though the Japanese economy depends now more than ever on tourism revenue to sustain growth.

People walk along a street in Gion area in Kyoto, Japan. Japan’s ancient capital, long a popular destination for tourists, will be closing off some alleys consisting of private property in its famous geisha district as complaints grow about misbehaving visitors. Photo / Kyodo News via AP

The district of winding alleyways is known for picturesque teahouses, where geisha and their maiko apprentices, wearing elaborate kimono and hair ornaments, dance and perform music.

In a city known for gorgeous temples and gardens, Gion is one of its most scenic and historical spots. Tourists, armed with cameras, like to wander around Gion, hoping to catch the women on their way to dance class or fancy dinner party.

Complaints about over-zealous tourists began bubbling up years ago, though the discontent cooled when the coronavirus pandemic led to a lull in tourism. Now, visitors are back with a frenzy.

Maiko, or apprentice geiko, pose for photos ahead of the upcoming Gion Odori dance performance in Kyoto, western Japan, on August 31, 2023. Japan’s ancient capital of Kyoto, long a popular destination for tourists, will be closing off some alleys consisting of private property in its famous geisha district as complaints grow about misbehaving visitors. Photo / AP

Overseas tourist traffic to Japan is rebounding to pre-pandemic levels.

More than 22 million visitors came to Japan last year, eager to take in sushi, electronic gadgetry and the country’s natural splendours, such as Mount Fuji and the beaches of Okinawa. In 2019, incoming travel totalled more than 31 million people, and this year’s number could approach or even overtake that, experts say.

It’s been too much for many residents of Gion. Their local council summarised their less-than-eager sentiments a few months ago by proclaiming: “Kyoto is not a theme park.”