House of hay in a Blenheim vineyard

SUE FARLEY explores an impressive but unconventional lodge made of straw that's set in a beautiful Blenheim vineyard.

House made out of straw! I was wondering just what to expect - is it a fancy hay shed surrounded by animals, a flimsy building like one the three little pigs built, or a homely cottage with a thatched roof? All my questions were answered as we made our way up the gravel drive, travelling between rows of yellowing grape vines.

Before us was a carefully sculpted building of character, all curves and corners and elegant colours. Contoured with smooth stucco and corrugated iron panels and bordered by brushwood fences, the lodge looked warm against a backdrop of autumn snow showers.

Straw Lodge opened in December, but has already built up a happy following of guests as word spread.

Built of traditional straw bale construction the buildings comprise two larger units and a smaller one. The owner's home has the guest kitchen, barbecue area and a cosy communal lounge.

Exterior and internal walls are thick, the width of a hay bale in fact, which gives them a wonderful feeling of space.

Standing there in a creamy vanilla they exude a cool softness, almost melting into the background.

Owner-builders Nettie and Bill Barrow took six years to complete the cosy B&B while also developing a working vineyard that surrounds the lodge.

Their export label, Churton, can be found in Britain and the United States and guests are encouraged to tour the vineyard and sample their host's labours during their stay.

Much of the furniture inside has been hand-made from macrocarpa trees milled on site. Bill's furniture-making skills are evident in the beautifully finished cabinets and trunks, the window joinery and the ceilings. They all glisten with a hand polished sheen.

Rooms have a sweet wood smell, thanks to the scent of oils rubbed into the timber, and a soft yellow glow reflects off the shiny ceiling.

The larger lodges have a king double bed and a lounge area that can be used as a second double. The smaller lodge has a double king. Both lodges have an ensuite.

Floors are sandy coloured Italian glazed tiles and the furnishings and coverings are in rich natural colours - brick, olive and blue. Each lodge has French doors which open on to a private courtyard overlooking the vineyard and across to the ranges of the Mt Richmond Forest Park.

Windows are double-glazed which, added to the strong insulating effect of the straw bales, gives a wonderfully warm, quiet environment indoors - a warm welcome when the chill of a southern winter starts to bite.

Outdoors, the lodge is surrounded by vineyards, not only the Barrow's 8ha planting of pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, but the kilometres of other vineyards that cover the Wairau Valley. Nearby are various world-class wineries and winemakers, and an excellent sprinkling of top-class restaurants as well - one for each night of our stay.

What better place to sit and sample some Churton wine and local pesto and olive oil with crackers and dukka than under the grape-covered pergola outside the main lounge. This area, constructed of huge recycled beams and with an enormous outdoor table, invites guests to sit and watch the sunset, sipping and nibbling into the evening.

Then it's a quick soak in the spa as the evening chill sets in before retiring to the lounge with its blazing open fire to carry on sampling the local produce and a delicious home-cooked meal.

* Sue Farley was hosted by Straw Lodge.

Where to find it

Straw Lodge is in Fareham Lane, 6km up the West Coast Rd from Renwick. It is a 15-minute drive from Blenheim.
Ph (03) 572 9767, fax 03 572 9769
email strawlodge@xtra.co.nz

What it costs

Two larger vineyard suites, single $130, double/twin $160. Extra person $40

Double room, single $90, double/twin $120.

Access: All rooms have ground floor access with good facilities for disabled use. Bathroom handles are on the to-do list.

Children: Children are welcome by arrangement, but parental supervision is important as the lodge is unfenced and surrounded by a working vineyard and its associated machinery.

Food

A full cooked or continental breakfast is included.

There are many excellent restaurants nearby to try, or arrange to eat-in one night of your stay.

Dinner with complimentary wine is available by arrangement at $45 a person.

What to do

Within a 15-minute drive of Straw Lodge there must be at least 40 good wineries and restaurants to try - from the large Montana estate just through Blenheim to the "Golden Mile" of top wineries along Rapaura Rd.

And there is the great outdoors - tramping in the Mt Richmond Forest Park, day trips to the Marlborough Sounds, Marlborough Wine and Food Festival in February, the biennial air show every second April, Hunters Garden Trail in November, skiing in winter, daily guided wine trails ($45 each) and lots of good wine to try.