Hotel review: What it's like to stay at the Flying Fox, Whanganui

The James K. Cottage at the Flying Fox, Whanganui River. Photo / Supplied

Maggie Wicks enjoys a unique off-grid stay in rural Whanganui.

Flying Fox, Whanganui
3081 Whanganui River Rd, RD6, Whanganui 4576
theflyingfox.co.nz

In brief: A unique and remote riverside retreat accessible only by cable car, the Flyng Fox is a truly memorable experience.

Location: Alongside the Whanganui River, with no road access. The closest main town is Whanganui, an hour's drive away.

Style: Organic and eco-friendly. Lovingly built by hand, the Flying Fox is a series of cottages sitting amidst forest and gardens.

Perfect for: An adventurous off-grid holiday.

Price: Cottages from $150 to $200 for a two-night stay for two people. Camping and glamping are available. All accommodation is self-catering, and a breakfast and snack menu is available. Meal inclusions can be arranged for groups on request. My stay was included as part of a wider trip with Intrepid Travel, on their five-day Forgotten World Adventure itinerary. See intrepidtravel.com/nz for more information.

First impressions: At the bottom of a steep driveway, bang the gong - this will sound out across the river and let your hosts on the other side know that it's time to send the cable car across. Load your bags and yourself into the cable car, and the adventure begins as you cross the Whanganui River. Running along a thick steel cable, this trip is safe as houses, if a little bumpy when you first climb in. If you're a bit nervous, just remember that the original cable car was a metal-framed bed hooked up to a series of pulleys. You can still visit the original, which hangs from a tree in the garden, once you've made it across.

Rooms: There are several cottages available including the James K. Baxter (who lived for a time at Hiruhārama (Jerusalem) further up the river) with its Juliet balcony and views across the river, and the Tiny House, built around an old hand-built, wooden gypsy cart, tucked behind a stand of hazelnut trees for privacy.

Each room is unique with a mish-mash of furniture, and collectables and treasures on every surface, but everything feels cohesive and intentional. You'll find retro, mirrored dressing tables, stained glass windows, 70s floor lamps and gorgeous retro Axminster carpet that would make any Ponsonby design store green with envy.

Bathroom: Much like the accommodation, bathrooms are all unique and hand-built. The toilets are self-composting, and towels and toiletries are provided.

Food and drink: Flying Fox is self-catering, and there's a little shop where you can pick up a good range of supplies including wine and beer (craft included), freshly baked bread, home-grown veg and fresh free-range eggs, chocolate, snacks such as crackers and olives and canned meals.

There's also a basic menu to order from, including sandwiches, hot chips, coffee, smoothies, cakes and breakfast options such as bacon sandwiches and continental buffet spreads.

Facilities: While you won't find a gym or a spa at Flying Fox, you'll find better. There are beautiful gardens full of fruit trees to wander, the mighty river roaring through the valley, and co-owner Kerry - a canoe guide of 12 years - can take you out on it.

Linen and towels are provided, Wi-Fi is available, and the owners will lend you torches if you care to go deer- or ruru-spotting after dark.

In the neighbourhood: Nothing and everything. Whanganui is an hour's drive away, but you haven't come here for the city life. On your doorstep, you'll find walks and adventures, from the forests to river trips, and from the beautifully restored Kawana flour mill to elegant little Jerusalem and its picture-perfect church and convent.

Family friendly: Very. Kids would absolutely love it here. With bushwalks, the cable car, native birds to spot, fruit trees, and the chance to spot shooting stars at night, Flying Fox is perfect for families.

Accessibility: Due to the nature of the location and uneven ground, Flying Fox is not wheelchair friendly.

Sustainability: I challenge you to find something that is not sustainable at the Flying Fox. The cushions are hand-sewn, the toilets are self-composting, the fruit trees are heaving, even the possum traps are set with their own home-grown avocados.

Contact: theflyingfox.co.nz

For more New Zealand travel ideas and inspiration, go to newfinder.co.nz and newzealand.com