Hotel review: Aitutaki’s Tamanu Beach

Tamanu Beach resort is on the western side of Aitutaki in the village of Amuri, less than 10-minutes from the airport. Photo / Tim Roxborogh

Location: On the western side of Aitutaki in the village of Amuri, less than 10 minutes from the airport. Aitutaki itself is a mere 18sq km (fractionally smaller than Rangitoto) and lies 260km north of the largest island in the Cook Islands, Rarotonga. It’s accessed via a 40-minute flight.

Style: The self-described “casual luxury” of Tamanu is a fitting summation of the 22 bungalows (plus one villa) that make up this small, family-run resort. Thatched rooves, local artworks, tropical gardens and an emphasis on open-air that extends to private outdoor showers.

Perfect for: Anyone who’s serious about do-nothing relaxation of the sunbathing and snorkelling, cocktails and books variety. Or you could do the opposite and be like me and use it as a base for running the annual “Pursuit In Paradise” Aitutaki Marathon! (Seeing as you asked, I did the half marathon, and yes, the rumours are true that my time was so generous everyone assumes I must’ve done the full marathon).

First impressions: It’s impossible to separate my first impressions of Tamanu from my first impressions of Aitutaki. As in, the sight of Aitutaki shortly before landing is like a Google image search of the word “paradise” come to life. The popping turquoise of the lagoon, the paper-white of the sand, the green of the tiny dots of the deserted islands – this place is worth all the hype. Tamanu, with its lagoon-front location, was an extension of that feeling from the skies.

Rooms: I was in a 1-bedroom bungalow right next to the resort’s pool, with a separate living area large enough to use as a second bedroom if travelling with children. There’s a day bed in the living area as well as one on the verandah, and an indoor bathroom if you somehow tire of showering under the stars.

The self-described 'casual luxury' of Aitutaki's Tamanu Beach is a fitting summation of the 22 bungalows (plus one villa) that make up this small, family-run resort. Photo / Tim Roxborogh

Bathroom: The indoor bathroom may be adorned in marble and mahogany, but I still couldn’t get past the outdoor shower. You almost feel like an exhibitionist, such is the novelty of a roof-less wash. But rest assured, full privacy is guaranteed and the Tamanu outdoor showers double as discreet places to dry wet togs in that magnificent Cook Islands’ sun.

Food and drink: A first-time visitor to Aitutaki could be forgiven for thinking a remote Pacific Island with only 1700 locals might be fairly average in the F&B department, but prepare to be surprised. Tamanu’s Vaitupa green curry was a winner, as was the gamefish special, served over a kumara rosti crumble. And coconut water straight from the coconut has rarely tasted so good.

Facilities: Can you count one of the most photogenic lagoons on the planet as a “facility”? Yes! Especially when snorkelling and kayaking can be done right off Tamanu’s beach. There are also bikes available from reception, and for those who’ve packed sneakers as well as jandals, a mini-hike to the top of the nearby 124-metre Maunga Pu will reward them with the best views in Aitutaki.

In the neighbourhood: Nothing in Aitutaki is far, and with the island’s highest point not much more than a third the height of the Sky Tower, bicycles are a fun and easy method of exploring.

Family friendly: Tamanu has shifted in recent years to welcoming families.

Accessibility: There are steps up to each of the bungalows, so it is unsuitable for wheelchair users.

Sustainability: Tamanu places a huge emphasis on using locally grown fruit, veges, and meat where at all possible. And any scraps from the restaurant are gratefully received by the resident pigs and goats.

Contact: tamanubeach.com