Niue, known as the "Rock of Polynesia", is four times the size of Rarotonga but smaller than Lake Taupo.
Niue, known as the "Rock of Polynesia", is four times the size of Rarotonga but smaller than Lake Taupo.
Niue is full of surprises - reason number one (of many) why it’s going to be your next best holiday in the South Pacific, writes Lorna Riley
Nope. Nuh-uh. NO FREAKING WAY! I believe I’ve made my feelings pretty clear, and yet here I am, about to be handed a very active uga (pronounced oonga): a large coconut crab whose body alone is bigger than my head. To say I am terrified would not be hyperbole, but Tony from A5 Plantation and Uga Tours has faith that I can conquer this particular fear and as it turns out, he’s right. As I heft the uga, which weighs more than three kilos, and grimace-smile at the camera, I mentally add this to the list of surprises Niue has delivered so far. While my crabby companion is returned to the wild, I must confess to feasting on one of his scrumptious mates at the aptly-named Crazy Uga, accompanied by delicious pawpaw (loki) straight from the tree, ota ika (the local version of raw fish marinated in coconut cream), and a drinking coconut (niu) with a generous side helping of stunning views over a tranquil bay. The quality of the food here is sensational - clock up another Niuean surprise.
Niue's coconut crabs, weighing over three kilos, are larger than human heads and can be found roaming the island's lush forests.
I’m ashamed to say that although I’ve planned several South Pacific getaways in the past (Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Fiji, New Caledonia), Niue (located in a triangle between Tonga, Samoa and the Cook Islands) has never really been on my radar. The first surprise is delivered through the plane window as we come in to land after a pleasant three-and-a-half-hour flight from Auckland. I already know Niue is one of the world’s largest coral islands (earning it the nickname Rock of Polynesia), but it’s larger than I imagine (four times the size of Raro, though less than half the size of Lake Taupo) and covered with lush vegetation, and small villages are dotted around the coastline. Despite its size, fewer than 2000 people live here (compared to the more than 30,000 Niueans living in New Zealand). It’s set atop an ancient marine volcano, adding to its mystique.
Disembarking from the plane, the warmth hits like a welcome fan heater after the inclement weather we’ve left behind. Temperatures here hover around the late 20s almost all year round, slightly warmer in the wet season that runs between November and April. Other adjustments are easy: the currency here is the New Zealand dollar and the time is the same, albeit 24 hours behind. There’s no public transport (although transfers to your accommodation are available), so a rental vehicle (or a bike) is a must if you want to explore the island fully.
Accommodation options are plentiful, from a stone villa built from pure limestone rocks and nestled within lush green forest, to an oceanfront retreat where you can bathe outdoors overlooking the ocean, to budget guesthouses, perfect for those here to fish or dive most of the day and who aren’t looking for luxury when they rest their weary heads. Me? I’m staying at the only resort on the island: Scenic Matavai, a magnificent property located on a clifftop with breathtaking 180-degree views of turquoise Pacific Ocean, and just 10 minutes’ drive from the airport and town. It’s part of the NZ-owned Scenic Hotel Group and the manager, Aaron, is a Kiwi too, as well as a tremendous host. I’m booked into one of the newer offerings, a spacious Deluxe Clifftop Room: its top-notch facilities include a super-king bed, a rain-shower and a private deck that overlooks the ocean, along with the all-important wifi and air-con. Food at Scenic Matavai Resort is sensational (spit roast and umu night at Dophin Restaurant with its cultural show is a must) and they make a mean mojito which you can enjoy poolside - the property boasts not one but two pools (which give a bird’s eye view of whales passing by in season). But why swim in a pool when you have some of the clearest waters on Earth at your feet?
Niue Blue offers snorkel tours, swimming with whales and dolphins, and rental of watersports gear for adventurous visitors.
Let’s get something straight: Niue is not your golden-sands-beach kind of paradise; it’s a coral atoll, after all. But if you can swim, snorkel or even better, dive, Niue must be moved to the top of your travel destinations immediately. Every 10 minutes or so around the coastal ring road, there’s a Hala Tahi sign which indicates a sea track. There’s more than 30 well-maintained (think non-slip steps and railings) paths accessing stunningly beautiful nooks and crannies, snorkelling pools, caves and chasms. I call the water crystal clear but am corrected by a local: it’s “gin clear”, very apt as the water is definitely intoxicating. Checking the tides is a must, but if one locale is not accessible at any given time, another is bound to be. Must-do swim spots include the Togo Chasm, Limu Pools, Avatele Beach and the jewel in the crown, Matapa Chasm.
Summer fun in Niue with Lorna Riley.
Right next to where I’m staying is Niue Blue, which offer all-ages snorkel tours, the opportunity to swim with whales and dolphins, or simply rental of your own watersports gear for an independent adventure. If I were here longer, I would undertake their learn to dive course; instead I opt to snorkel, and once I’m fitted with a spring suit and fins, we head out on the water. I have a surreal feeling that I’ve somehow fallen in an aquarium: the vibrantly coloured reef fish and corals are a visual feast. Our guide is helpful to those less confident in the water, proactive in pointing out the underwater life, and enthusiastic when it comes to snapping pics of our group for posterity, like the shot of me seemingly relaxed as a striped sea snake undulates past. Often swimming with spinner dolphins is a part of the experience; sadly today they are elsewhere, but I still rate this as my best snorkelling excursion to date.
Being out in the water always works up an appetite, and Niue has many wonderful options to satisfy the meanest hunger. A degustation dinner at Kai Ika is a highlight, with authentic Japanese fare prepared by a Tokyo chef accompanied by a flight of beer and cider from microbrewery Inu Hake. Fana Cafe and Hio Cafe also come highly recommended. There are many other options for foodie travellers to explore: check out Niue Honey (already sampled by yours truly at Peter Gordon’s Homeland) and Niue Vanilla (the pods and essence make a superb souvenir or gift for those unlucky enough to be left behind).
Niue's culinary scene boasts unique offerings like degustation dinners featuring authentic Japanese cuisine.
All too soon, my 96 hours in Niue is over - but even leaving Niue is an adventure. After checking in at Hanan International Airport, there’ s some time to kill before security opens, as the same staff are working incoming and outbound flights; it’s a chance to extend the holiday just that little bit by exploring the Alofi sea tracks, browsing the airport market - even heading back on the resort shuttle to spend a little longer by the pool.
Niue Tourism uses the byline “there’s nowhere like us”, and I couldn’t agree more - this is an island unlike any other. It’s a cost-effective island option where most of its attractions are free and those that aren’t, are affordable. Although it’s taken me far too long to visit this island paradise, I vow to say “fakaalofa lahi atu!” again to this jewel of the Pacific - the best of all the surprises Niue has held.
CHECKLIST
NIUE
WHEN TO VISIT
The most popular time of the year to visit Niue is July to October, when the humpback whales are visiting. April, May and June are also a good pick, because temperatures are comfortable (average temperature 24°C)
HOW TO GET THERE
Air New Zealand currently has two flights per week to Niue, departing Auckland on a Wednesday and Saturday (arriving in Niue on Tuesday and Friday, when return flights depart). airnewzealand.co.nz
Niue Orientation Tours take care of the day after all flight arrivals. Run by retired Kiwi school principal Keith and his wife Sue, these four-hour small-group excursions show you all the best parts of the island so you can mark your favourites for a return visit; the provided resource pack is invaluable with current tide information, weather forecasts and insider knowledge. niuetours.com
