Holding on to the past

Goulburn has a heritage that holds the secrets of the settling of Australia, writes CHRISTINA PFEIFFER


John Wilson was definitely not the sort of person the authorities wanted to honour. Convicted of stealing nine yards of cloth, he was shipped off to Sydney on the First Fleet.

When he gained his freedom, he retreated to the bush forging communication with the local Aborigines and was the first settler to lay eyes on the Goulburn Downs in 1798.

Years later in 1863 the British government proclaimed it Australia's first inland city. But they didn't give it his name.

Goulburn today has developed into a major centre for wool but its best-kept secret is the lovingly preserved architectural buildings that hold the stories of the settling of Australia.

It used to take 16 days to reach Goulburn from Sydney in a rickety old coach that groaned at the seams. As a traveller, bouncing in potholes, you would have been wondering whether you and your family would ever reach Goulburn without being hijacked by the shadowy figures that roamed the district.

Looking out the coach window, you would have seen acres of dense bush and a trail of dust. All your worldly goods might have been tied up in trunks at the top of the coach, your stomach in knots as riders approached, fearful that they may be the Ben Hall Gang. With all your money and clothes gone what would you do?

You might have been aware that two convicted murderers, White and Mooney, were hung in Goulburn and left on the gallows as an example. And even if the highwayman Frank Gardiner was sentenced to seven years' jail at the Goulburn court, that might have been a small comfort as you would have also seen the "wanted" posters for the dangerous Goulburn-born bushranger "The Duce".

Law was passed for all of Australia making it illegal to harbour bushrangers in Goulburn.

Modern travellers from Sydney have the choice of an economy or first-class seat on the two-plus hour train journey. The train's windows form vistas of sheep and cattle farmlets, pretty undulating countryside and burnt orange, mauve sunsets. Disembarking at the Goulburn railway station means taking an immediate step back into the past with its matching chimneyed, caretaker-like quarters painted in a rustic red with wide and colonial verandahs sweeping along the walkways.

The grand old buildings and magnificent cathedrals in the town look like they were transported straight out of England and dropped in the Australian countryside. St Peter & Pauls and St Saviour's Cathedrals tower above the houses and shops, their facades well preserved in bluestone and sandstone. St Saviour's interior is breathtakingly grand with high archways supported by enormous sandstone pillars, Kauri beams adorn its ceiling and stunning 19th-century stained glass sparkles in the sun with vivid colours depicting stories from the Bible. At night, the Cathedrals are lit up creating an impressive outline against the clear starry sky. The imposing giant Foster and Andrews organ fills a space along a wall and the hall with joyous uplifting music. The venues are used to host opera, choirs and orchestras.

Grafton St has some early stone buildings and a bright red letterbox with a high mail slot, a reminder of the era when riders on horses could post their letters without having to dismount.

Sip a cappuccino and tuck into a famous pie at Bryant's bakery cafe on Auburn St for a look through the old photos hanging on its walls. Here, there is a view of the grand old post office and original town hall. Further along the street is an intricate sculpture on the top of the AMP building, the Goddess of Peace and Plenty, which was the work of W.P. Macintosh. George Adams, founder of the Tattersall lottery sweeps, once had his butcher shop on this site.

Elmslea Chambers is a strange but fascinating building with a quirky tiled facade of birds, flowers, leaves, carvings of the head of a sheep and Art Deco sunbursts under the windows - an example of 1930s Rococo-style architecture.

Just off the main road, the Sisters of Mercy Convent looks like it is straight out of a movie set. Built in 1862, it was the first inland convent in Australia.

Goulburn Court House was designed by one of the most respected architects of the day, Colonial architect James Barnett, who also designed the General Post Office in Sydney.

Overlooking the city is the Rocky Hill War Memorial, a 20m floodlit tower with a sweeping air beacon. The memorial base is inscribed with the names of 2500 residents who served in World War I and the caretaker's cottage has been converted into a museum.

St Saviour's Cemetery holds the graves of William Hovell, Mary Martin and Admiral Gore R.N. William Hovell explored the Sydney-Melbourne route with Hamilton Hume in 1824. Mary Martin arrived with the first fleet in 1788, sentenced for seven years for shoplifting. Admiral Gore was the son of Lt Gore who sailed with Captain Cook on his voyage of discovery. Here lies a reminder of the explorers and colourful characters that contributed to the settling of Australia, if it were not for them, much of Australia might have remained the rough and rugged, undiscovered land it once was.

On the banks of the Wollondilly river, the sun cuts through the crisp air caressing the water with its warm fingers. Birds fly through the bushes chirping merrily. Families chatter and laugh while they wait for the sausages and steaks to cook at the brick barbecue by the river and kids play around the grassy bank. It's a top spot for a picnic.

The Waterworks Museum presides majestically over this river scene. Inside is the Southern Hemisphere's only steam-powered water supply, at its original river site, lovingly restored by volunteers; another piece of Australia's history preserved.

If John Wilson were alive he would have been amazed at the sight of Goulburn today but perhaps not quite as amazed as the colonial masters of the time. They would have been truly astounded that a place that was once looked upon as an outpost to banish undesirable convicts to is now an integral part of a nation's heritage, so lovingly preserved by the people of the city.

WHEN TO VISIT

Any time of the year. The Classical Winter festival runs from May to July with events at historical sites. The Australian Blues Music Festival each February. The Rose & Jazz Festival runs in March when many of the historic homes and gardens are open to the public. The Lilac City Festival is in October. The council website offers a calendar of events.

GETTING THERE

By car from Sydney it's a two-hour drive along the Hume Highway. Country Link operates a train service from Sydney to Goulburn $33 or $45 (first class).

Eating Danny's at the Goulburn Workers' Club serves hearty meals in a bistro that has been renovated to imitate a wool store. The Paragon Cafe is a Goulburn icon, still decked out in art deco style.

ACCOMMODATION

There are a number of B&Bs, motels and farm stays in the area. Bishopthorpe Manor is a grand country guest house with open fires and gardens. Mandelssohn's run a historic boutique B&B. Historic Garroorigang is an old historic home with B&B style accommodation.