Hawkes Bay: Relaxing on the dock of the Bay

The villas are built on the banks of the Tukituki River. Picture / Hawkes Bay Today

The original Hawkes Bay is about apples, the Magpies footie team and good-paying summer jobs on the canning line at Watties. The new Hawkes Bay is $50 million wineries, a recently completed, world-class golf course, and corporate jets flying in extremely wealthy tourists.

This year, facilities at the province's airport have been improved so larger parties from overseas can fly to Napier without clearing customs in one of the main centres.

They come to play golf at the Cape Kidnappers' course ($200 green fees) and dine at wineries such as Craggy Range, Clearview and the Mission.

The new breed of visitor doesn't settle for the campsite in Havelock North, or Waimarama baches, which accommodate traditional Kiwi visitors. The jet-setters, as well as wealthy trippers from Auckland and Wellington, expect something more refined.

A number of exclusive lodges and homestays now cater for top-end visitors to the wine country region. Black Barn winery has developed half a dozen such properties in vineyards and on the coast over the past decade.

Black Barn is owned by former advertising executive Kim Thorp and businessman and design consultant Andy Coltart. Their latest development on the banks of the Tukituki River is a stone's throw from Craggy Range's state-of-the-art Giants Winery.

The cottages, designed to the tiniest detail by Coltart, are understated in their elegance. On arrival, lights are on, music is playing and, when the weather dictates, fires are lit. The team caters for every whim, without being intrusive.

Hanging on the wall of my lodge was a huge Dick Frizzell landscape of Te Mata Peak, which wouldn't have been out of place in one of the country's better galleries.

The kitchen is a foodie's heaven, with quality appliances, and enough fancy accessories to make Nigella Lawson swoon. A range of local foods is also on offer to get visitors through their first breakfast.

Each villa has a heated lap pool, with a swim being a great way to build up an appetite for a home-cooked meal using the freshest Bay products bought at the nearby farmers' market, washed down with Black Barn wine, with which the villas are well stocked. It is available at retail prices, which avoids the feeling of exploitation often experienced when one is presented with a hotel mini-bar bill.

In the early days the Black Barn cottages and villas were mainly occupied by Wellingtonians escaping the capital, but about five years ago that flipped to being mainly Aucklanders, who now drive past the delights of the Coromandel and Taupo to enjoy the wonders of Hawkes Bay. Overseas interest is also strong, with international visitors making up 30 per cent of occupancy.

The villas are not advertised. Most business comes through recommendations by former visitors, or from repeat business. Despite a hefty tariff the villas are booked months ahead.

Most guests are escaping big-city pressures, and want relaxation, but when the batteries have re-charged there is plenty to do for recreation in the Bay. Golf, wine tours, a trip to see the gannet colony at Cape Kidnappers, fine dining, bush walks, sailing, fishing and art deco tours in nearby Napier.

But the quality and tranquillity of the Black Barn villas is enough for many. All living areas, inside and out, are connected to a quality sound system, there is a huge bath, even bigger bed, log fires inside and out and views to die for along the picturesque Tukituki river.

Sitting in luxury in front of a roaring log fire watching a harrier hawk hunting along the river bank, while sipping a glass of Hawkes Bay cabernet sauvignon is a memory that will linger for years.

Checklist

Hawkes Bay

* Getting there
Drive to Havelock North, five hours from Auckland, or there are several flights a day to Hawkes Bay.

* Accommodation
The Black Barn cottages are perched above the Tukituki River, facing Te Mata Peak and are 10 minutes' drive from Havelock North. Details available on the website link below. www.blackbarn.com

* Food
The Saturday Village Market, Havelock North, and Sunday Farmers' Market, Hastings, offer fresh Bay produce and a range of interesting and exotic foods. The cottages have fully equipped kitchens stocked with the basics. Top restaurants include Craggy Range, Sileni, Te Awa, Vidals, Black Barn and Mission, all close.

* Activities
Trout fishing is at the doorstep or a guide will take anglers further afield. There is also river swimming, kayaking and extensive walking trails. Cape Kidnappers, one of the world's great new golf courses, is 20 minutes downstream. Waimarama and Ocean beaches are 20 minutes to the west, and wineries, restaurants and art galleries are within minutes of the gate. Havelock North, with great shopping, is 10 minutes away.

* Tariff
Winter $600 a night, summer $650 a night. Minimum stay two nights. No pets and no smoking indoors. The properties are ideally suited for two couples sharing. Each house has TV, stereo and phone. Other Black Barn properties have tariffs from $200 to more than $1000.

* Contact them
The Black Barn Private Retreat Collection, phone: (06) 877 7985, fax: (06) 877 7816, or email on the link below.