Musician Greg Johnson in Los Angeles. Photo / Supplied
Kiwi muso and LA resident Greg Johnson reveals some of his favourite spots in the City of Angels.
It's a big city but LA is best considered a collection of neighbourhoods. I'm going to be talking about the Westside — the bit by the beach, Santa Monica, Venice, Malibu, West LA — because that's where I live. For God's sake don't stay at Anaheim, or Torrance or LAX.
Take the dang kids to Disneyland then head for somewhere Westside or Downtown if you're under 35. Hollywood is mostly to be avoided IMHO, apart from the odd drive down Sunset. In no particular order, these are my six must-do things in LA.
First a quarry and now an incredible oasis garden in the city with a large lake, as the name says. Around the lake there are statues and tributes to the five great world religions but the temple was founded by Paramahansa Yogananda and his Self-Realization Church. George Harrison used to go there. Entry is free and you can meditate as long as you like. Wake up to yourself, young man!
2. Santa Monica Wednesday Farmers' Market — Downtown Santa Monica
The biggest and best of many produce markets. If you want to know what they're growing up there in the central valley, it's quicker to say what they're not growing: monkey apples. Apart from the food, it's a great place to see the truly beautiful range of weirdos, loudmouths, young, old, famous and not, that inhabit this city. Count how many languages you hear for the hell of it. Joe Turkel — Tyrell, of the original Blade Runner fame — is down there a lot. Say no more.
3. We Are The West, Underground Carpark Show — Santa Monica Blvd
Every month, on the nearest Saturday to full moon, my pals We Are The West put on a show in an underground carpark, on the corner of 7th and Santa Monica Blvd. It's on at 9pm. No signs, no advertising, just an amazingly well-set-up temporary venue featuring varied guest artists (I have played it myself). The acoustics are especially great for their Springsteeny, ambient songs and the band is sometimes expanded to include strings, bass clarinets, howling vagrants, you name it. Take your favourite strain of organic herb with you from the local weed store.
4. Getty Villa — Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu
A lot of people know about the Getty Center — the huge art gallery up on the hill is an amazing place — but lesser known is the Getty Villa in Malibu. Right by one of John Paul Getty's mansions, he built a replica of a Roman villa circa 50AD to house his massive collection of antiquities. It features gardens authentic to the Roman era, a very good cafe serving Mediterranean food, and an amphitheatre with regular performances of Greek and Roman plays and music.
The view down to the ocean is spectacular, and if you choose a quiet weekday, you can wander around the reflecting pools pretending to be Nero. Free entry but $15 to park. getty.edu/visit/villa
Everyone in LA has a favourite taco place and this is mine. It's a dumpy old concrete-floor place with plastic chairs. The menu is extensive, cheap, and includes old-school dishes like birria (Mexican goat stew, which is terrible) and stuffed green chilies, and of course the best tacos and hot sauce on the Westside. Tons of good beers are to be had and a really great, low-rent vibe; everyone from local cops to the Mexican mafia can be seen chomping on the rice 'n' beans.
6. Sawtelle Japantown
A few miles inland from Santa Monica is the wonderful old Sawtelle Japantown (not to be confused with Little Tokyo Downtown).
There are old nurseries with really old bonsai on display and various wacky Japanese boutiques and stores — but mostly it's about the food. There are tons of noodles, tempura, sushi and so on to choose from, and the place has a real atmosphere of its own, especially at night. You can take the train or hop on the nearest electric scooter; you will find them all over the place.
Greg Johnson tours New Zealand this month for his career-spanning tour Every Song has a Story. He plays Auckland's Galatos on October 27.