The silky pink sands of Crete’s Elafonisi Beach are Insta-famous. Photo / Getty Images
The silky pink sands of Crete’s Elafonisi Beach are Insta-famous. Photo / Getty Images
Although Greece is a prime summer destination, visiting in other seasons is an opportunity to discover another side to the country – not to mention beat the crowds and explore the sites in less sweltering temperatures, writes Elise Morton
With experiences ranging from the autumn colours of Zagorohoria and festive breaks in Athens, to Easter in otherworldly Meteora and diving ancient shipwrecks, Greece makes one thing very clear – there is no bad time to visit.
All that’s left to do is pack: will it be a bikini, light spring coat or ski jacket?
Beyond its archeological wonders, beaches and abundance of feta, Greece is a veritable hiker heaven. Though Pelion, Zagorohoria and the Peloponnese are also walking hotspots, Crete is the cream of the crop when it comes to strolling in the late-spring sunshine. The island’s Samaria Gorge – one of the longest gorges in Europe at a mammoth 16km — is undoubtedly the biggest draw for hikers, cutting through the rugged White Mountains of Crete and resplendent with wildflowers in springtime. Measuring just 3m across at its narrowest point, the trail takes you through a dramatic Unesco Biosphere Reserve and is open from May to October.
Pro tip: Be sure to do those all-important snaps at the viewing platform before descending into the gorge, and be on the lookout for kri kri goats and griffon vultures.
Passage of famous Samaria Gorge, Crete, Greece. It is one of Europe's longest gorges. Photo / 123rf
Prefer to explore on two wheels? Head to Kos, dubbed Greece’s “cycling island”. The abundance of relatively flat terrain on this Dodecanese isle makes it an appealing option for novices embarking on their first cycling holiday, while more challenging routes on dirt and mountain roads will help confident cyclists feel they’ve earned an ouzo or two. Even Kos Town can be conquered by bike – an eight-mile cycle lane stretches along the waterfront. Alternatively, cycling fans can pack the streets of Rhodes to watch professionals take on hairpin bends and impressive elevation in the Tour de Rhodes race, or explore the bountiful biking routes that crisscross the varied landscapes of Naxos.
Kos is dubbed Greece’s “cycling island”. Photo / Getty Images
Spend Easter at the Byzantine monasteries of Meteora
While Easter in Greece is special no matter where you are, spending it at one of the country’s holiest spots – Meteora – is sure to elevate your experience … quite literally. With its name derived from the Ancient Greek metéōros, meaning “on high” or “in the air”, Meteora pretty much does what it says on the tin: this group of six functioning monasteries (of an original 24) are perched atop towering, otherworldly stone pillars, some 400m above the Peneas Valley. Visiting at Easter means the chance to take part in age-old traditions amid this spectacular setting: the sombre procession of the Epitaphios – a recreation of the tomb of Christ, often decorated with flowers – on Good Friday; the midnight mass that ushers in Easter Sunday; preparing colourful dyed eggs; and the almost obligatory eating of roast lamb and tsoureki (sweet easter bread).
Beyond the spiritual dimension, with the monasteries built between the 12th and the 16th centuries and research suggesting that the rock towers were formed some 60 million years ago, the Unesco World Heritage Site is a must-visit for history and geology enthusiasts and also offers excellent hiking opportunities. Meteora is set in the Thessaly region of central Greece and is easily accessible from Athens or Thessaloniki.
Holy trinity monastery of Meteora, Greece. Photo / 123rf
Discover Athens before the summer heat hits
With a daily average high temperature of 32C in August, Athens is among Europe’s hottest capital cities come the summer months – great if you plan to simply chill out by the pool or sea, but less fun if it means enduring a very sweaty slog up to the Parthenon. Visiting in spring means sightseeing-friendly temperatures (April boasts average highs of 20C, for example), as well as avoiding the hordes of tourists that descend on the city in summer. What’s more, that stroll to the Parthenon or up one of Athens’s many scenic hills is likely to be improved by the presence of vibrant poppies and daisies.
Head into town on March 25 to celebrate Greek Independence Day, complete with parades, marching bands and traditional dishes that have become synonymous with the holiday: bakaliaros (fried salted cod) and skordalia (a potent garlic and potato dip).
It's better to discover Athens before the summer heat hits. Photo / Despina Galani on Unsplash
SUMMER
Swim in Greece’s azure waters
With upwards of 12,800km of coastline, Greece is frankly something of a showoff when it comes to beautiful – and not to mention varied – places to spend a beach day. Instagram-famous favourites include the silky pink sands of Crete’s Elafonisi Beach and dramatic landscape of Navagio Beach (also dubbed Shipwreck Beach) in Zakynthos, while families flock to the shallow pine forest-backed waters of golden Koukounaries in Skiathos and Rhodes’s beloved Tsambika (both ideal for paddling and sandcastles). If you’re in the market for a beach day with a side of high-octane fun, Mikri Vigla on Naxos is paradise for windsurfers, while idyllic Tinos has something of a burgeoning surfing scene.
Enjoy the dramatic landscape of Navagio Beach (also dubbed Shipwreck Beach) in Zakynthos. Photo / Max van den Oetelaar on Unsplash
Dive an ancient shipwreck
Luxuriating in the pristine waters of the Aegean doesn’t have to mean a mindless beach day – it can also be a submarine history lesson. Just off the islet of Peristera (a short boat ride from Alonissos), lies Greece’s first underwater museum – a shipwreck believed to date from the 5th century BC. For a long time only accessible to archaeologists, the site now welcomes recreational divers to discover the ill-fated transport ship and its cargo, which included up to 4000 wine amphorae. Non-divers can get in on the fun by visiting the Information and Awareness Centre in Alonissos’s enchanting hilltop old town, where you can take a 3D virtual-reality tour of the wreck. When exploring the Marine Park, keep your eyes peeled for the endangered Mediterranean Monk Seal.
Catch an opera in an ancient amphitheatre
What’s better than exploring an ancient Greek amphitheatre? Perhaps only watching an actual play there. A definite highlight of the Greek summer calendar, the annual Athens-Epidaurus Festival boasts a packed programme of theatre, music, dance and creative workshops – with the hottest tickets being those for shows at the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the southern slopes of the Acropolis. Originally completed in AD 161 and renovated in 1950 (since when played host to the likes of Maria Callas and Frank Sinatra), the Odeon of Herodes Atticus offers the chance to inject your city break with a dose of living history, while a trip to Epidaurus is a gateway to discover the wider Peloponnese peninsula.
AUTUMN
Explore vibrant Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki is Greece’s second city, but it’s the country’s culinary heart – not to mention the capital of cool. A storied past and myriad cultural influences have left their mark on the cityscape, meaning history enthusiasts can spend their days exploring the Roman Forum, Byzantine-era Hagia Sophia church and the elaborate frescoes of the Rotonda (which has functioned as a temple, mosque and church), before diving into Thessaloniki’s Ottoman architecture and Jewish history.
As with its architecture, Thessaloniki’s gastronomic offering reflects its heritage as key trading port within numerous empires, as well as the diverse communities that have called the city home: just one of the reasons Unesco designated Thessaloniki Greece’s first city of gastronomy in November 2021. In the name of being cultural, then, you’ll need to sample numerous treats like bougatsa – layered filo stuffed with feta or sweet semolina custard (doused generously in icing sugar and cinnamon) – spiced soutzoukakia meatballs, and trigona pastries dripping with syrup and filled with a rich creamy custard.
Visiting in autumn not only means pleasant temperatures (particularly for the steep walk to the Upper City with its Byzantine and Ottoman-era fortress) and fewer crowds, but also the chance to experience one of Thessaloniki’s most dynamic cultural events: the Thessaloniki International Film Festival, which takes place each November.
The famous seaside promenade towards the white tower in Thessaloniki, Greece. Photo / 123rf
Enjoy autumn colours in Zagorohoria and lakeside Ioannina
Though equally beautiful when dusted with snow or bursting with spring flowers, northern Greece’s Zagorohoria region really comes into its own in autumn. Set in the dramatic Pindos mountains, Zagorohoria is known for its 46 chocolate-box villages, the breathtaking Vikos gorge (the world’s second deepest), postcard-perfect stone bridges, and the Papingo rock pools – all the more enchanting when framed by the deep orange, red and yellow hues of autumn foliage.
Just south of Zagorohoria, the capital of the northern Epirus region, Ioannina, sits on the shore of Lake Pamvotis. After sipping a Greek coffee at one of the lakeside cafes, explore the fortified Byzantine kastro, still inhabited today and featuring the Ottoman Fethiye Mosque. A short boat trip then takes you out to Ioannina island and the Ali Pasha and Revolutionary Period Museum, packed with artefacts including ornate clothing, weapons, and documents, giving visitors a sense of life during a tumultuous period of Greek history.
Traditional stone-made buildings of Monodendri village in the Zagoria area of north-western Greece. Photo / Getty Images
Awaken your inner archaeologist – without the crowds
One simple step to avoid the worst of the crowds — as well as sweltering temperatures — is to explore Greece’s archaeological wonders outside of the peak summer season. Why not combine an autumn city break with a journey into antiquity? Beyond the Acropolis, from Athens it’s relatively easy to visit the Sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi, the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion or the Sanctuary of Asclepius at Epidaurus, while Thessaloniki boasts great day-trip options such as Ancient Philippi. For the most reliable autumn warmth, head south to the Minoan Palace at Knossos or Phaistos in Crete.
WINTER
Hit the slopes
Skiing in the land of sun-drenched beaches and tzatziki? Yes, it’s really possible – with Greece’s snow season running from around December to March, there’s ample time to trade in your vin chaud and fondue for some taverna-style après ski. Among Greece’s most popular resorts, Parnassos is only a couple of hours away from Athens, meaning you could be admiring the Parthenon in the morning and shredding the slopes by lunchtime. When it comes to reasonably priced skiing, though, Kalavryta on the Peloponnese peninsula is hard to beat – it’s no wonder it’s a favourite weekend escape for snow-loving Athenians. But why just ski any mountain? To ski Greece’s most iconic peak, head to the Elatochori Ski Centre on the northern slopes of Mount Olympus.
Kalavrita ski centre on a powder-perfect day. Photo / 123rf
Get festive in Athens
Kicking off on December 6 for the feast day of St Nicholas and lasting until Epiphany on January 6, the Christmas season in Athens calls for attending the tree-lighting ceremony on central Syntagma Square; admiring the light installations and indulging in some shopping (or some aspirational window shopping, at least) on glamorous Voukourestiou Street; and visiting the Christmas Factory bazaar at Technopolis, a one-stop-shop for handmade gifts, theatre and magic shows, and even meeting Santa himself. No December visit would be complete without al fresco ice skating and strolling among the Instagram-worthy lights at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, where you can also check out a roster of free festive shows.
All this yuletide fun is hungry work. The most important decision you’ll have to make is whether you are team kourabiedes or melomakarona. To decide if melt-in-the-mouth, icing sugar-clad kourabiedes shortbreads or syrupy, spiced melomakarona take the biscuit (pun intended), head to lauded Athens bakeries Konstantinidis or Sweet Alchemy.
Staying for New Year’s Eve? Nothing beats ringing in the new year while watching the fireworks over the Acropolis from atop Lycabettus Hill or a rooftop bar.
