Astakos village in Greece. Photo / Dennis Kastanos
Kiwi broadcaster Dennis Katsanos rediscovers his Greek heritage - and adds 4kg in weight.
On my third visit to Greece - going back to the birthplace of my parents - I wasn't too sure what to expect. After the economic struggles through which the country has recently suffered, would it be all doom and gloom upon arrival? Or was the media hype getting to me?
Some things never change. The first thing I noticed when I got off the plane was the heat - 30-something degrees in the early evening. I was also struck by the number of empty shops in a normally packed Athens.
After working on the Commonwealth Games for SkySport, I booked a ticket from Glasgow to Greece to catch up with my cousins and see some sun before heading home to New Zealand.
I spent the first couple of days in Athens, catching up with my cousins Dennis (also named after my grandfather) and Costa, who run an import company, which they are keeping afloat after a 40 per cent downturn in business. A lot of their time was spent chasing debtors for payment. Much of our discussion was about wealthy tax evaders with money abroad, how there was a tax on everything you could think of and the austerity measures imposed.
Despite Greece teetering on the edge of a cliff, there was still a real passion and joy for life among the people. It's hard to put into words, but they know how to live life and enjoy the simple things: good wine, good food and good company.
From Athens, I went to my parents' village, Astakos, which is about five hours' west of Athens on the coast to see the rest of the family and get in a few swims. This may sound a bit strange, but although I was born in Wellington and have lived in New Zealand my whole life, driving into Astakos felt like returning home.
It was quite emotional, especially as I'd been away a long time. I felt a real connection to the place and almost a sense of belonging.
The family home is in the best spot in the village, right on the water with a few steps leading to the beach.
The house is really basic, just like a typical Kiwi bach, including an outhouse. It always amazes me when I walk through the door and look at the fireplace, that my dad was born right there in 1931.
First, it was a frappe (iced coffee) with my cousins, then off for a swim.
You get that amazing sense of cooling while you're in the water, then a few minutes after you get out, the heat hits you again and back in the water you go.
In a village of just over 2000 people it didn't take long for news of my arrival to spread, and before I knew it, I had all my aunties and uncles asking me to come for lunch. It's a blessing and a curse - I'm one of those people who can't say no, and soon I was having lunch or dinner with a different family member every day.
The food is not your typical Kiwi meal. Greeks are proud, and no one wants to send you home hungry, or have you report back to your parents in New Zealand that they didn't look after you properly. So every meal was over the top.
One dinner had four meats - 3kg of lamb chops for three people, pork, beef and fish - with salad, fries and a huge block of feta.
I wasn't surprised to discover I'd put on 4kg in just over 10 days.
By New Zealand standards most of my relatives are poor, but they have a happiness that many Western societies are constantly chasing. They are happy with a day's fishing, a swim, a game of backgammon or helping a neighbour build a fence.
Despite averaging only about four hours' sleep a day in trying to maximise my time with everyone, the days went quickly and then came the hard part - saying goodbye. In particular, to a couple of aunties in their 80s who may not be there next time I go. I hope they are; I'd love for them to meet my children.
I sometimes wonder what my life would be like if my parents had stayed in Greece and we had been brought up there. What would I, my brother and sister do for jobs?
I wonder whether our lives would be as blessed as they are in New Zealand. It's a hard one - things always seem different when you're on holiday. But it did reinforce the proud Greek in me, and add to my love of New Zealand.
CHECKLIST
Getting there:g> Emirates flies daily from Auckland to Athens via the airline's hub in Dubai.
Dennis Katsanos is a presenter for SkySport.