Gracious time off in brown trout country in Lake Rotoroa

By SUE FARLEY

Just imagine you're the fish," Peter Rippin said as we sat at the front window of the lodge, overlooking the lake.

"They always face into the current, and they sit watching the surface, waiting for a fly or a mosquito or a cicada to flick across. Then they jump up and eat it.

"When fishing we walk up the bank behind them, so they can't see us.

"We watch them, often for a long time. We watch what they eat, what attracts them - we call it stalking, although it's not like that really.

"Then we look in our tackle box for a suitable fly, one that will look close to what the fish has been eating that morning. Or maybe we'll make one to suit - wind a few things around the hook, maybe some horsehair or tiny feathers.

"Then we cast the line over the top from behind the fish, he goes for it, and we've then got to land it. But we're careful with the fish, we net it gently, free it, then let it go. Brown trout take too long to grow to be killed," he laughs.

It's this kind of passion and enthusiasm that makes a good fisherman, or woman. And as the operations manager for Shackleton International, which owns four of the most exclusive fishing lodges in the world, including Lake Rotoroa Lodge, Rippin would know.

On the lakes and rivers of Buller and the Nelson Lakes area, which some claim to be the brown-trout fishing capital of the world, it is standard practice to go out fishing every day.

Within an hour's drive of the lodge are 25 fishable streams and rivers - not counting those requiring boat or helicopter access.

Guides are available on request to take anglers to these and other lakes and rivers across the top of the South Island.

Spare days can be filled with tramping the excellent tracks in the area, birdwatching, rafting or horse-trekking, and evenings are spent relaxing through the big table d'hote dinner laid out each night.

Lake Rotoroa Lodge was built in the 1920s, in the days when well-heeled ladies and gentlemen travelled in a style few of us bother with these days.

Looking over the lake, the view extends across shiny silver water to mist-covered mountains and dark valleys in the distance.

Recently refurbished, the lodge brings back all that high class and luxury in a time-honoured way. Decor is dark and luscious - thick bunched burgundy drapes, leather and oak furniture, oiled floorboards and ornate colonial fireplaces.

Dining is in the old style, around a shared table, where fine folk from around the globe mingle and chat while enjoying the best of local foods.

Top-quality fruits and vegetables, seafood and meats are sourced from around the top of the South Island. Jo and Margaret, the chefs, then create an elegant range of dishes suited to the foods of the day. No effort is spared.

Next to the dining room, the wine cellar and tasting room shines under candlelight, its gold-leaf ceiling and leather-wash walls glowing in the flickering light as guests sample the best wines from Australia and New Zealand.

The 10 bedrooms are spacious and traditionally furnished in a mix of colonial styles. Each has access to a veranda and overlooks either the lake or the surrounding trees and gardens.

But surpassing all that style and elegance is the scenery - the view through the windows is truly stunning.

Lake Rotoroa is the silent, brooding partner of Nelson's two lakes. It sits quietly in its steep-sided glacial valley surrounded by dense beech forest, the smell of sweet honeydew wafting on the breeze and the clunking chimes of dark green bellbirds and shiny black tui filling the air.

Even in summer there can be snow on the tops and smoke curling out of the chimneys.

Taking morning tea with Nancy from Denver I was intrigued by her love of the place. "We have been here every February for the last 12 years now, and we wouldn't want to go anywhere else in the world in February. The men fish every day, and when it's not raining I like to ramble in the trees," she said.

Which is her way of going for a walk while her menfolk stalk the riverbanks for those elusive brown trout.

Lake Rotoroa Lodge