The glitzy glass high rises of Surfers Paradise are close enough to be seen on the horizon yet, soaking in a cedar hot tub under towering eucalyptus trees, they feel like a world away. The Scenic Rim is as different as you could possibly imagine to Surfers’ beachside urban sprawl and yet, to my surprise, they are both part of the Gold Coast. One city with two very different experiences on offer.
If you’re looking for theme parks and shopping malls and high-rise hotels, you’ll still find them on the GC. But if you want to be immersed in nature, surrounded by scenic views from a sprawling country estate, you can find that too. The Gold Coast has something for everyone.
Verandah House Country Estate has been a labour of love for Queensland couple Judy and Laurie Pereira and much as the first-time hoteliers might protest that they don’t know what they’re doing, you can tell they’re actually in their element.
This boutique homestead-style accommodation is on Tamborine Mountain, just an hour’s drive from Gold Coast Airport, where the Scenic Rim’s cool climate provides a literal breath of fresh air from the buzz of the GC.
Judy and Laurie bought Verandah House just over a year ago after a change of life focus due to the pandemic. Before, they’d always travelled overseas to explore new, far-off destinations, but closed state and international borders led them to turn their attention to their own backyard.
“We discovered so close to home one of the most beautiful, picturesque, regions in the world, the Scenic Rim,” they write in their welcome letter in the in-room information booklet. “There was something about the Scenic Rim that had us captivated from the moment we started exploring this incredible region, wondering why we were always so eager to go somewhere afar when all along what we were seeking was right here.”
When they first viewed the property with a view to purchasing, they realised just how rundown and neglected it was. “The gardens were overgrown and the house was hidden by a mass of rotted timber, shipping containers and unruly shrubs that blocked any natural light to the homestead,” they say. They nearly walked away but as they moved through to the back of the property, they discovered its hidden secret – a sweeping panoramic view of the Green Cauldron, Mount Warning and, in the distance, the Pacific Ocean. They were sold and soon, the hotel was too.
Laurie, a builder by trade, has been involved in renovations before but this was on an epic scale. They spent eight months turning a neglected mess into what is now a stunning luxury lodge-style hotel – Laurie overseeing the build and Judy in charge of the decor, drawing on her background as an interior designer. The couple’s painstaking work has paid off – the property is stunning both outside and in. Judy’s sense of style oozes from every inch of the six stunning suites: Ralph Lauren soft furnishings, country house-style colour schemes, wood burner fireplaces and sumptuous couches and beds – the big details are enough to impress but then drill down to the little details and you realise just how much attention has gone into this venture. Bookcases filled with titles to pore over, complimentary minibars filled with luxury snacks and teas. The kettles are Smeg, the blankets are Italian-made and butter-soft, and at every turn, there’s a nook perfect for curling up in.
Outside you’ll find a magnesium swimming pool, a firepit surrounded by Adirondack chairs and that hot tub, perfectly warmed to 41 degrees and positioned so you can look out at the valley and feel like you’re the only person there.
There is still work to be done – more landscaping of the grounds and a wine cellar/tasting room to be built – but for guests, things feel comfortable, workable and welcoming already.
Judy says many visitors have talked of being overwhelmed by a rush of emotion when they arrive and see the view, some saying they feel a strong spiritual connection to this place they’ve never been to before. Wellness is to become a big focus for Verandah House, with yoga retreats planned for the future. In the meantime, you’ll find crystals dotted around the suites, books on well-being and self-improvement on the shelves and framed inspirational quotes about the importance of self-love. There’s an on-site infra-red sauna and guests can book in for massages and beauty treatments at the day spa, or borrow a yoga mat for a self-guided class under the eucalyptus trees.
After a long day of travelling, we’re content to sit around the fire pit at dusk with a cheese platter and a glass of wine, while the light falls and the bats leave their roosts in the trees.
I sink into bed between those expensive sheets and sleep deeply, before waking at sunrise to see the estate bathed in the golden glow of first light. It seems only the birds are up this early with me so I take a yoga mat and tiptoe to the trees, a spot that seems to be tailor-made for a round of sun salutations.
By the time I’m done and showered, ready to begin the day, Judy has set out the most glorious breakfast buffet spread in the guests’ shared kitchen, full of colour and homemade goodness. There’s freshly baked bread and crumpets, tropical fruits, homemade jams and granola, croissants, smoothies, Nespresso coffee and herbal teas. Guests are encouraged to load up a picnic basket and eat their breakfast wherever on the estate they choose, whether that’s at a table by the kitchen, on a blanket on the lawn, or back in bed. I pile my plate far too high and sit back in the comfort of my suite, bemoaning the fact I have to leave.
As I get ready to go, I find Judy and Laurie sitting drinking coffee in a sun-drenched spot next to the kitchen. You’d never guess this is their first hospitality venture, that they’ve worked tirelessly to get Verandah House to its current state, or that their work is far from done. They seem content and relaxed, as if they’ve found the exact place they’re supposed to be. Now it’s time for them to reap the rewards of all their hard work, while they get the joy of sharing this very special spot with others.
vhcountryestate.com.au
More Hinterland highlights
Across the valley from Verandah House Country Estate, you’ll find another property well worth checking out when you want a change from the bright lights of the GC.
Beechmont Estate was once a private residence with its own polo field, stables and helicopter pad. Now, under new ownership, it’s a luxury accommodation and restaurant venture, part of the Northern Escape Collection that also includes Orpheus Island Lodge and Daintree Ecolodge.
If you’re looking to stay a night or two, there’s the ultra-luxurious owners’ residence, with four bedrooms, infinity swimming pool and private outdoor space. But at A$5000 per night that’s probably one to save for a special occasion or a Lotto win.
For the more ordinary folk, there are 20 cabins available but it’s not glamping as you might know it – all have en-suite bathrooms with rain showers and luxury toiletries, the minibar is full of locally sourced treats and each room has its own wood burner to keep you warm and cosy. Private decks showcase the Hinterland views and you might spot wallabies, koalas or birdlife in the native trees.
Guests can choose bed and breakfast or dinner, bed and breakfast rates, with meals taking place at The Paddock, the onsite award-winning restaurant.
Executive chef Simon Furley places an emphasis on sustainable and environmental practices, including reducing food waste by smoking, curing and fermenting produce that would normally be discarded and finding new ways to use it in menu dishes. Think root to stem as well as nose to tail. Everything is cooked over open fires and produce is sourced as hyper-locally as possible.
If you’re not staying at Beechmont, you can visit The Paddock for lunch on Thursdays to Sundays (12 pm to 3.30 pm), or dinner seven days a week (6 pm to late). And you really should – both food and ambience are exceptional.
It’s another hidden gem in the Gold Coast, proving the region has much to offer those who choose to look a little further.
Air New Zealand and Jetstar fly direct from Auckland to the Gold Coast. The Scenic Rim is less than an hour’s drive from Gold Coast International Airport.