KEY POINTS:
Dawn kissed the sky and embraced the clouds over the Pacific Ocean as a pod of dolphins merrily played "Marco Polo" in the lagoon.
From where I stood, I could see a whole world awakening from its slumber. A flock of rosellas squarked loudly as they took flight to the south, then suddenly banked around to the north. The sea of tranquility off the Tweed coast sent an endless drumroll of waves surging through the mouth of the peaceful river.
All this unfolded through the wide sliding door to the balcony, just beyond the foot of our bed. No-one else stirred from their sleep; I had this all to myself. I floated back to bed to catch another 40 winks.
We were on the Gold Coast to spend three days on the hot sands of North Kirra Beach for the annual Queensland Nipper Titles.
Our Kawana Waters team manager had booked many of the families of competitors into the 4.5-star Outrigger Twin Towns Resort, right on the Queensland/New South Wales border and opposite Greenmount Beach.
The last time I visited Twin Towns, I'm ashamed to say, was in 1984.
Back then, Queenslanders hadn't seen anything as sophisticated as Twin Towns, which boasted a show lounge where you could be served at your seat while enjoying some of the best touring acts in Australia (I remember seeing Johnny Farnham out front of the Little River Band on one occasion, and having a gladiola thrown at me by Dame Edna Everidge on another). It was certainly the place to see and be seen.
Now, 25 years later, Twin Towns has expanded into the complete holiday playground - not only straddling two sides of the road but also two states, connected by an covered walkway high above the traffic.
The complex - defined by its two accommodation towers and the unmistakable services club - includes: high-rise accommodation in hotel rooms and self-contained apartments; seven cafes and restaurants, including the newest, Flame, with its popular wood-fired pizzas and pastas; a showroom hosting big-name Australian and international touring acts and shows; 150 hours of top-quality live music every week in Breezes; bars ranging from the family-friendly Harbour Lounge to Champions Sports Lounge; 16 options for business conferences and function rooms; an array of activities during the day - from weekly big-screen movies, to trivia and bingo; Kidspace kids' club with its own sports area, mini-theatre with DVD movies and electronic games (free to resort guests); indoor swimming pool, steam room and gym, plus outdoor swimming pool, and spas; mini-golf and tennis courts; a resort shop and even a travel agency; and TAB and all the pokies action you could ever wish for.
Once you've arrived, you are only a short stroll or elevator ride away from a world of dining, socialising, relaxation, fun and entertainment.
And, of course, there are those views.
Our two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment was on the ninth floor of the newest part of the resort, Harbour Tower.
The wide verandah wrapped around the dining and lounge, with a balcony off our main bedroom. Together, we had 180-degree views, from the mountains on one side, to the Tweed River on the other, with beaches, Coolangatta's Griffith Street businesses, Marine Parade high-rises and Tweed Heads shopping areas in between.
Although I have lived in Surfers Paradise and Miami, this area has always held a special place in my heart. My late father was educated across the road from Twin Towns, at Tweed Heads Primary School, and worked in the Tweed as a hotel cook and fisherman before World War II.
My first family holiday, as a five year old, was at nearby Rainbow Bay, where we visited Jack Evans' Pet Porpoise Pool, fished off the jetty behind Markwell's, and ordered lunch in a Coolangatta cafe with mini-jukeboxes in every alcove.
Kirra, Snapper, Tweed Heads, Rainbow Bay and Coolangatta were all exotic-sounding destinations to a Brisbane girl - especially when most people I knew holidayed in Caloundra.
Today, families can still swim, surf, fish, shop and eat out without spending a fortune. The "metropolis" at the northern end of the Gold Coast, and the theme parks beyond, aren't too far away if you really feel the need to play tourist. But, on this holiday, we didn't have to venture to the glitzy north to feel like we were living the celebrity lifestyle.
We were welcomed by attentive and friendly service in the Tuscan-style reception foyer, and before long, found ourselves sipping a chilled sauvignon blanc and admiring the expansive water views from the two-storey, floor-to-ceiling windows of the Horizons Lounge.
That night, two long tables of families savoured a king's banquet of dishes that formed a great arc around the Four Seasons Buffet. The next night, our large group BYO-ed nibblies on the pool deck while our children enjoyed a musclesoak in the outdoor spa under a blanket of stars.
With the Roxy and Quiksilver Surfing Pro under way throughout our stay at Outrigger Twin Towns, we were also kept busy star-spotting - turning our heads at the hint of an American accent and checking to see if every blonde-haired surfie-type was local boy and 2007 world number one, Mick Fanning.
On our last night at Twin Towns, our families took advantage of the value-for-money Four Seasons Carvery, before the young ones hit the kids' club and some of the adults adjourned to Breezes Live for drinks (well, we weren't driving anywhere!), with a free show by Bunker's Dueling Pianos band.
This had certainly been a holiday to remember. And suddenly, the long weekend didn't seem quite long enough.
Outrigger Twin Towns Resort
Cnr Wharf St, Tweed Heads and Griffith St, Coolangatta
To book, telephone 1800 19 20 20 (within Australia) or email twintowns@outrigger.com.au
- SUNSHINE COAST DAILY