Going wild in Fiji

By GERALDINE McMANUS

They call me the Professor of Bird island," Maika quipped. I wasn't surprised. We slipped off the side of a traditional boat, painted aquamarine to match the sea, and our toes edged into the crystal-clear warm water and wrinkled into the fine coral sand.

Maika edged the boat backwards. It was high tide so he carefully pushed it out from shore to anchor in deeper water.

Just above, a booby bird with bright, watchful eyes sat calmly on its nest eyeballing me - I could almost feel the distrust. I was stranger-danger but apparently not a predator of concern.

Above the trees, boobies shot the breeze of Mabualau Island's updraft, wheeling and turning in aeronautic displays. As one turned directly overhead, two bright red paddle-feet splayed out from glide position like sophisticated braking and turning-gear, then as the turn was completed the feet almost disappeared into a streamlined position.

It was the beginning of the nesting season for the colony of rare red-footed boobies. Prime positions had been commandeered already with birds in residence sitting on twiggy tree-side nests while other boobies entertained with stunt-like glides and turns. It was mid-morning, and few were out hunting or diving for fish.

While staying at Toberua Island Resort I took the boat trip to nearby uninhabited Mabualau, often just called Bird Island. Toberua, about an hour from Suva, is located within a large lagoon that includes the nature island. The resort takes pride in a long-term commitment to preserving the unique and fragile heritage of the nearby reefs, islands and mangrove estuaries and sharing knowledge and appreciation of the area.

Toberua (pronounced Tom-berua) is a tamed jewel in Fiji's crown. Long recognised as a South Seas treasure, it's a tiny island with just 15 thatched, high-roof bures for guests. Away from the main tourist area on Viti Levu the feeling of remoteness and tranquillity is definitely part of the charm.

The island resort is just 4ha at high tide and around 20ha at low tide. As the tide retreats it exposes the resort's sand golf course, the Royal Toberua Links Course, where taking the game seriously incurs a penalty at the bar.

Even the trip to Toberua is romantic. Just 15 minutes by taxi from Nausori (Suva) Airport to the Landing, then a 20-minute boat trip down the Navaloa River. The limpid river reflects the beautiful, bush-fringed banks as the journey passes small, isolated villages. Rewa Delta near the river mouth has a fascination all its own, the river is the highway and the estuaries the byways for people in all sorts of small craft.

Several eco tourism and cultural activities are offered by Toberua resort at no extra cost.

I missed the village visit and was sad about that. Guests recall their pleasure in learning the ways of the local Fijians and seeing their traditional lifestyle. With no roads or electricity, village life remains much as it has for centuries.

I did go reef snorkelling in the clear, warm waters with Toberua's Canadian dive instructor, Sandra Joyce, who is living her dream.

"It's possible to find untouched reefs nearby to dive and explore and the sea is clear for miles," she said. That was the lure that brought her to live and teach diving here.

It was heartening to see the healthy environment with its myriad brilliantly coloured fish. A small, glossy book about tropical fish and coral is included in each bure for reference.

Mabualau is a 2ha patch of land close to the outer reef. It was formed from coral 135,000 years ago. Tours from Toberua to the island are accompanied by an expert guide sharing knowledge of the flora and fauna. Maika, our guide and one of Toberua's accomplished boatmen, is from the village of Vatani.

I was soon in awe of his local wisdom imparted with enthusiasm and passion, but also his jokes which kept us on our toes learning and listening.

We set off aboard a traditional boat, Waikoula (golden water), for the 20-minute journey over the flat lagoon waters just as the tide was full. Beneath us were clear tropical waters, beyond the wide horizon of sea and sky. Away in the distance white rollers indicated the outer reef.

Maika brought the boat quietly alongside Bird Island's tree-covered fringe and turned the outboard off. The jungle-like interior of the island has grown mostly from seeds dropped by the birds ranging from pawpaw to red chilli plant. Maika remarked on a couple of women on one tour who continued to chat through his explanations. With a smile he says he offered them some sweet red chilli to try, then, with "no water to save them", he had their attention for the rest of the island visit.

Stout shoes are required as the undergrowth is thick, matted and muddy, smelling of guano, and old coral foundations are exposed in many parts of the rough track. The island is home to large burnt-orange-coloured hermit crabs, squealing fruit bats hanging from tree tops and herons nesting inshore among coral.

Among the crevices, Dadakulaci, banded sea snakes, lie curled up. They come ashore to shed skin or recover from dining out on a large eel - often sleeping for a week or more to digest their meal. Maika explains they are part of the eco-system.

"The snakes eat eels on the reef. No snakes, too many eels, no fish," he remarks.

It's a delicate ecosystem which the locals appreciate and leave in harmony.

To explore the extraordinary Rewa Delta of mangrove-fringed tributaries, we took a river-boat journey from Toberua to the Nasamila Mangrove Forest. Maika, again as guide, with his twinkle added to the exploration. As we trailed the quiet riverbanks I noticed small bamboo- and mangrove-fenced fish traps.

Bali ni ika (fish traps) are like a fresh fish market. Fish and prawns swim down the line of sticks into the trap's central "lagoon", then, Maika explains, "forget the door to get out". Still alive, fish can be collected as required, while unwanted fish are released.

The thick mangrove forest protects the coastal river bank, providing a breeding ground for fish and crabs at the start of the food chain. The trees are also a great resource for the local villagers providing hard wood timber for housing.

"Small leaves: strong wood, large leaves: soft wood. Don't let anyone sell you wood from large-leaf trees for building," says Maika. I tried to explain I'd just visit a timber yard and rely on recommendations but I also understand how my life is a world away from such a rich heritage of knowledge, and poorer for that.

Tours such as these leave visitors with an appreciation of the locals who have long been the careful custodians of their environment and its delicate eco systems. Their wisdom built up over so many years carefully balances nature and human needs. We have lessons to learn.

Getting there

Fly direct Auckland to Nausori with Air Pacific.

Air Fiji flies Nausori to Nadi and other Fijian destinations.

Flight Centre is offering five nights in an Oceanfront Bure at Toberua Island Resort from $2139 a person share twin.

Package includes return economy class airfares on Air Pacific to Suva from Auckland and return airport transfers. Airport taxes, insurances and other charges are extra.

What it costs

A double/twin bure is F$540 ($460) a night

Totoka Vakaoti (premium bure) F$580 a night (each waterfront bure sleeps two adults and two children comfortably)

Price includes snorkelling, trips to Mabualau Island, Nasamila Mangrove Forest and Village Visit.

Other activities

Also included in the price is golf at low tide, hobie cat sailing, windsurfing, hand line fishing, coral viewing boat, picnic trips to Motoriki and Ovalau

Launch transfers

Nakelo landing to Toberua return F$75 a person

Child under 16 return F$35 a child

Car transfer Nausori airport to landing F$16 per car

Food

Full breakfast, lunch and dinner F$110pp a day

Any two meals F$92.50pp a day

Other things to do

PADI dive courses by qualified dive instructor available including discover scuba diving, open water certificate, open water referral and advanced open water courses. All charged extra.

* Geraldine McManus was hosted by Toberua Island Resort, Air Pacific and Air Fiji.

Toberua Island