It's not often you get to board a luxurious catamaran and go in search of whales and dolphins with a marine biologist. Auckland Whale and Dolphin Safari is an Auckland-run company — the only licensed operator acting out of a major city — with a strong focus on marine conservation and research, hence the biologist onboard, and the master of marine science working alongside her.
I remember back in the 90s in the Hauraki Gulf there'd be loads of boats out watching for dolphins and I always felt worried for their safety when they all seemed to converge on a pod at once in a way that seemed invasive. Not so on board the Safari's huge boat, which can hold up to 100 guests: there are strict protocols in place that adhere to the DOC rules ensuring the safety of our marine life. As a result, you can rest easy knowing you're not engaging in harassment of any species, or impacting on their wellbeing.
On a cold winter's day, there are just over a dozen of us aboard the Dolphin Explorer, which means we can spread out on the decks of the 65-foot vessel, where a well-stocked bar is swiftly opened for anyone after a drink or a snack. We head towards Rangitoto with the brisk salt air teasing our cheeks, the skipper keeping up a dynamic patter of information about the marine reserve.
![Auckland Whale and Dolphin Safari trips have a marine biologist on board to give engaging commentary on the species you're seeing. Photo / Supplied](https://www.nzherald.co.nz/resizer/v2/XNEQFXF3UWVS33TI2WZ47RXUTI.jpg?auth=e4681e661ab2560b2d310e2e5dafd1383c259a128d14e94ba4a465bd462677f0&width=16&height=11&quality=70&smart=true)
We pause out in the channel towards Coromandel to participate in some "citizen science" where the crew show us how they measure the density of phytoplankton, checking for the health of the water. They do this on every single sailing, feeding their findings into a database that provides up-to-date information on the health of the Gulf and its surrounds. A sample of seawater is pulled up, and we all crowd round, peering at the tiny creatures quite visible in the brine, identifying the zooplankton from the phytoplankton on a special chart. I was surprised by how enchanting it was to see tiny organisms dancing round in a jar, and I wasn't the only one cooing over creatures that looked like tiny inchworms, and jellyfish — all the guests seemed equally engaged.