Giverny Inn, Waiheke Island

By KAREN GOA

It's fun to go somewhere on a boat. It's even better fun when the ride is only half an hour long, the sea is flat as a mackerel and a room with a view waits at the other end.

Giverny Inn is a five-minute drive from the Matiatia ferry through Oneroa village and up one of Waiheke's many hills.

Business consultant Gabrielle Young and husband Bruce McLelland, once a commercial fisherman and now a professional skipper among other things, searched as far as Tutukaka for "a place near the coast" to satisfy Bruce's sea-yearnings. The already established Giverny Inn caught their eye - it was close enough to Auckland for business yet near enough to the sea to suit Bruce.

Since taking over the property in June last year the couple have made extensive renovations, retaining something of the original European feel while modernising the decor. Creamy walls and polished wood floors showcase Gabrielle's covetable collection of glass sculpture, ceramics, paintings and textile works by New Zealand artists such as Kate Wells and Christine Boswick.

Both the organza and wicker Venus Suite, which occupies the second floor of the main house, and the stand-alone Bacchus Cottage give vast and peaceful sea views over the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. The private Venus Suite balcony is accessed from both the main bedroom and the adjacent sitting room, which has a sofa, extra bed and tea-making facilities. There are outdoor chairs, a table and a chaise longue for view-gazing or reading a book from the suite's library.

The historic Bacchus Cottage, circa 1939, is my retreat for the night, and a cosy elegant bolt-hole it is. Set among lavender and daisies and shaded by a venerable puriri tree, the cottage opens to a large deck via French doors from both the bedroom and the lounge/kitchen/dining area. Here, too, polished wood floors set off the buttery plastered walls and Persian-style carpets. The TV and video are hidden away in a carved wooden cabinet. There's a fully equipped kitchen - two-burner hot-plate, fridge, microwave, crockery and cutlery - for longer-stay guests who feel the need to cook.

There's a vial of L'Occitane Eau de Parfum among the lavender on my pillow, chilled wine in the fridge (for poor planners), and an in-house massage service. The hour I spend under Susan Hansell's knowing hands in the comfort of my own cottage is a treat my muscles and I won't soon forget.

Bruce serves breakfast in the dining room of the main house on a table the size and heft of a fortress door. I feast on cereal, raspberry chocolate chip muffins, pears poached in white wine and vanilla bean, with room left over for bacon, garlic mushrooms, grilled tomatoes and herbed scrambled eggs with locally made organic bread.

After breakfast I sit on my sunny deck, gazing toward the racing rats of Auckland, and plot how to "accidentally" miss the ferry back.

* Karen Goa was hosted by Giverny Inn.


WHERE TO FIND IT:

44 Queens Drive, Oneroa, Waiheke Island, Auckland
ph (09) 372 2200, fax (09) 372 2204
email relax@giverny.co.nz

WHAT IT COSTS:

Prices are for double/twin occupancy a night and include full breakfast. Venus Suite, $310; Bacchus Cottage, $310

Massages cost $80 an hour, facials are $50. Book through Giverny Inn.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No.

GETTING THERE:

Fullers Auckland passenger ferries leave regularly from Auckland and Devonport. Ph (09) 357 9102

Subritzky Line passenger and car ferries leave from Half Moon Bay. Ph (09) 534 5663 or 0800 4 SUBRITZKY

GETTING AROUND:

Take a shuttle or taxi from Matiatia wharf, rent a car (Waiheke Rental Cars, ph 372 8635) or bring your own on the car ferry.

WHAT TO DO:

Tour vineyards, stroll the Waiheke Island walkways, clamber around historic Stony Batter's gun emplacements, visit art galleries, go sea-kayaking.

Phone the Waiheke Island Visitor Information Office (09) 372 1234 or see Go to Waiheke.

WHERE TO EAT:

Te Whau Vineyard, Te Whau Point, 218 Te Whau Drive
ph (09) 372 7191

Vino Vino Restaurant & Bar, Oceanview Rd, Oneroa
ph (09) 372 9888

Pizzeria & Cafe da Stefano, Surfdale Village
ph (09) 372 5309