From uptight agony to blissful ecstasy at a Thai spa

By MEGAN SINGLETON.

It ended in ecstasy but it started as agony. The pain shouldn't have been a surprise because I was warned in advance that a traditional Thai massage was not something to be taken lightly.

I had made the booking before I left New Zealand and by the time we landed in Bangkok my helpful friends on the flight over had succeeded in making me quake in my socks.

They had all booked safe and relaxing aromatherapy and reflexology sessions for themselves and took great delight in explaining that traditional Thai massage has a reputation for being very deep and very painful.

As a result I had a sleepless night of anticipation at the Marriott Spa and Resort in Hua Hin and a nervous morning sightseeing at the famous teak palace of King Rama IV.

All too soon we were back at the hotel for what would be pampering for some and, it seemed, torture for me.

To say I arrived hot and flustered would be an understatement. It was 39C, the air was thick with humidity and we were late.

I rushed into this tranquil haven, overheated to the point of fainting, going deaf from the headache ricocheting around my skull and begging for a shower first.

Luckily the staff were beautiful and incredibly friendly. I was led down a path under palm fronds waving in the breeze over exotic flowers that were showing their faces to the clear blue sky. We came to enormous teak doors, which opened on to a luxurious indoor-outdoor treatment room that would be my space for the next two hours.

Walking on large stones over lotus ponds and river rocks to a cabana draped in fabric, I came to heavy curtains separating the treatment area from the stunning garden and outdoor shower. It was a fabulous start.

I felt like I was in the Garden of Eden, standing on slate tiles under a cascade of water in the midst of tropical plants and flowers cleverly concealing the stone walls. Nestled opposite was a large stone bathtub waiting to be filled with scented water and rose petals and my headache began to subside.

Finally, relaxed and dressed in a pair of white cotton pyjamas, I returned with a little apprehension to the massage table. But my fears were immediately alleviated when I met the sweet girl who would be treating me. She was tiny and I foolishly presumed I'd be fine. I was wrong.

This minuscule girl had incredibly strong fingers, which found the sorest parts of my body, nearly shooting me through the teak roof. Within moments I was using the international language of wincing and shrieking to communicate that I needed her to ease off.

Fortunately, she understood, and for the remaining hour and 45 minutes I was a total wuss in the lap of luxury as she stretched, kneaded and gently worked my muscles to within an inch of bliss.

Thailand has been on the cutting edge of the spa trend sweeping the world for the past decade, and it's not hard to figure out why. With centuries-old traditions of natural healing, meditation, massage and yoga, plus medicinal flora and natural hot springs, Thailand has easily jumped on board and is now a world leader in top-end luxury treatments.

Mandara, the largest operator of tropical garden spas in hotels and resorts in Southeast Asia, opened in Thailand in 1999. Its award-winning, architecturally designed spas are breathtaking - once you've experienced one you'll be off to the garden centre to emulate the East-meets-West flavour the minute you get home. Of course the beautiful-year-round weather, tranquil gardens and tropical plants help. Minimal decor and soft, dreamy drops of fabric leading to lotus ponds and outdoor bathtubs are de rigueur.

But you don't have to go posh to get a great massage in Thailand. There's everything here from little back-alley places where, for about $5, you can have your back, neck and shoulders tended to, to my decadent, two-hour treatment costing $100.

Spa treatments also cater for all levels and tastes. You can relax and be pampered, have those trouble spots attended to, or go the whole hog and experience the Thai version of Extreme Makeover at some of the best health spas in the world, where guests disappear for a week or two to lose weight and detoxify.

Health spas

Dedicated to entire body overhauls -- guests aren't there to relax and be pampered. Rigorous treatment programmes are supervised by medical teams for slimming, relaxation, detoxifying, or increasing energy. They usually include calorie-controlled meals and personalised exercise programmes.

Chiva Som in Hua Hin is the most famous and is lauded for launching the spa revolution in Thailand. It was also voted best destination spa in the world by Conde Nast UK readers in 2002 and you're likely to see Liz Hurley or Fergie wandering around incognito in fluffy white robes.

Popular hotel and resort spas

These spas are usually resorts or hotels first and spas second - the spa being just one of a range of services. You can pick and choose what services you want each day, in between sightseeing and shopping.

Bangkok

The City of Angels is one of Asia's most cosmopolitan cities. Temples, palaces and river cruises are just some of the attractions in Bangkok, before sampling the legendary nightlife and endless outdoor markets or the sanctuary of air-conditioned indoor shopping.

Wat Po near the Emerald Temple of Buddha (Wat Phra Keow) is a must for a massage. The temple is widely considered the home of Thai massage.

Others include:

The Oriental (66) 2 439 7613

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (66) 2 653 0333.

Being Spa Co (66) 26 626 171

Devarana Spa Dusit Thani Hotel & Resort (66) 2 236 9999

Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa (66) 2 476 0021

Peninsula Bangkok (66) 2 861 288.8

Banyan Tree Spa Bangkok (66) 2 679 1052

St Carlos Medical Spa (66) 2 975 6700

Phuket

The pearl of the south is the largest island in Thailand, broken by a chain of mountains and surrounded by a coastline that varies from rocky headlands to long, sandy beaches. Limestone cliffs and forested hills sit alongside lagoons and tropical flora - there's plenty to discover if you get bored with too many spa treatments.

Among its spas:

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa (66) 76 338 000

Pearl Village (66) 76 327 006

Banyan Tree Spa Phuket (66) 76 324 374

Dusit Laguna Resort Hotel (66) 76 324 320

Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket (66) 76 324 101

Koh Samui

This tropical gem of an island off Thailand's southeastern seaboard is covered in coconut trees and bougainvillea. The second-largest island after Phuket, it offers remote beaches, shopping, fab food and an exciting nightlife.

Spas include:

Ban Sabai Spa (66) 77 245 175

Santiburi Dusit Resort (66) 77 425 031

Health Oasis Resort (66) 77 420 124

Tamarind Springs (66) 77 424 221

Krabi

A two-hour drive from Phuket, Krabi is the stunning beach on which Leonardo di Caprio frolicked in the movie The Beach. Much of the province is a designated national park so the kayaking, snorkelling and sailing are second to none.

The spas include:

Pimalai Resort & Spa (66) 75 629 054

Krabi Maritime Park & Spa Resort (66) 75 620 028

Pavilion Queen Bay (66) 75 637 611

Pattaya

The country's most popular seaside resort, this is just 90 minutes from Bangkok. Accommodation ranges from luxury beachside hotels to simple guesthouses. Golfing, scuba diving and game fishing abound in Pattaya, as well as a vibrant nightlife of restaurants, bars, clubs and lounges. Pattaya can be brash and bold or beautiful and bucolic.

Spas include:

Central Wong Amat Beach Resort

Royal Cliff Beach Resort (66) 38 250 421

Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa

Hua Hin

A quiet seaside resort on the Gulf of Siam, Hua Hin is where King Rama IX lives and is becoming known for top spa resorts. Enjoy a spot of night shopping at the outdoor market or visit the food market for a taste of Asia. This is a laid-back beach town for those after a place to relax and lay low.

Chiva-Som International Health Resort (66) 32 536 536

The Evason Hua Hin (66) 32 632 111

Anantara Resort & Spa

Marriott Resort & Spa

Chiang Mai

Northern Thailand's most important city was formerly the capital of an independent kingdom, Lanna. It is home to many first-class spas making the most of the balmy climate and exotic location amid rolling hills and tropical jungle.

Ban Sabai Spa, Chiang Mai Town (66) 53 285 204 6, Village (66) 53 854 778 9.

* Megan Singleton flew courtesy of Thai Airways and stayed at the Marriott Spa and Resort, Hua Hin.