Fraser Island: Paradise for backpackers

By CHRIS HERDE

If the world needed a microcosm of the essence of Australia, Fraser Island would be a prime candidate. The world's largest sand island stands as a monument to the uniqueness of Australia's natural attractions.

Apart from regular tourists, it has become an essential stop for the tens of thousands of backpackers working their way up the east coast of the country.

Recognising the importance of the market, the Kingfisher Bay eco-tourism resort, on the island's western shore, has complemented its luxury villas with accommodation for the young, budget-conscious traveller.

Over the past few years the resort has added purpose-built lodges and a restaurant, as well as a bar and nightclub complete with big-screen video and pool tables.

Set in a eucalyptus forest and surrounded by a wealth of bush tucker, plants and birds, the lodges have bunkrooms, two bathrooms and large, open communal areas. And there are plans to expand.

While it's party, party, party for some, the main reason Australian and international backpackers go to Fraser Island is nature.

Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a wide array of half- to four-day tours, walks and water activities to give punters a chance to see and touch what Fraser Island has to offer.

There's much to see, from cool rainforests with 1000-year-old trees to more than 100 freshwater lakes and huge sand blows.

Fast-flowing streams abound on the sand island and there are "champagne" rock pools to play in, not to mention the amazing Seventy-Five Mile Beach highway to drive along, complete with a rusting shipwreck and coloured sands.

The World Heritage-listed island also boasts half of the bird species in Australia, while in the waters off Hervey Bay there are fish, whales and dolphins in abundance.

And back on the island there are the dingoes. Once just a potentially dangerous thrill to campers, Fraser Island dingoes became every parent's nightmare last year when they killed 9-year-old Clinton Gage.

Although backpackers continue to arrive, the number of family groups camping on the island has understandably dwindled since the tragedy.

Kingfisher Bay Resort director of environmental management, Chris Knight, says the death, followed by a dingo cull, cast a pall over the island.

But he said education of tourists and managing the island's remaining 160 dingoes have gone a long way towards ensuring such a death never recurs.

Knight says it is the responsibility of every visitor to the island to "respect" the dingoes.

"The dingoes to my mind are really nice, friendly animals - and that's the problem, because everyone sees them as puppy dogs," he says.

"But we have to treat all animals with respect and we have to be careful.

"Since the tragedy we have adopted the same strategy as national parks, and that is to try to separate the people from the dingoes through managing food sources.

"Extensive information programmes and penalties for people interacting with them have increased."

He says visitors have got the message and fewer people are wanting to have close contact with Australian native dogs.

Knight says Fraser Island remains "something special".

It's the only Australian destination named this year as one of the world's 10 best beaches by the Travel channel on US cable TV.

Readers of the prestigious Conde Nast Traveller voted it one of the world's top 10 tropical islands for the second year running.

That doesn't surprise Knight.

"There's no doubt in my mind that sand islands are unique, and there's no doubt Fraser Island is unique," he says.

"We have things here you couldn't find anywhere else in the world."

* Case Notes

Hervey Bay, the famous whale-watching resort, is five hours (300km) on the main bus route from Brisbane. Bus fare is about A$40 ($46).

Hervey Bay is about three hours from the Sunshine Coast by road.

Sunstate Airlines (book through Qantas) runs direct flights from Brisbane to Hervey Bay. A return flight from Auckland to Hervey Bay (via Brisbane) is about $1000 (plus taxes) with Qantas. Ph: 09 357 8900.

Once at Hervey Bay, you can take a car to Fraser Island on a ferry for about A$82 ($94) return - passenger charges are A$5.50 ($6.30) if travelling with a car.

Where to stay

Apart from the Kingfisher Bay Resort, the Eurong Beach Resort offers rooms from around A$40 ($46) a night to A$500 ($573), for one person, twin share, depending on the season and style of accommodation. Ph 0061 741 252343.

Campers need permits, which cost A$4 ($4.50) a person a night or A$16 ($18) a family a night.

Permits are not needed when camping in a private camping ground as this is covered by campsite fees.

Getting around

Your best option is to hire a four-wheel-drive vehicle at Hervey Bay. Many companies hire cars complete with camping gear. It is recommended you hire from a member of the Fraser Coast 4X4 Hire Association.

Advisory

Visitors taking a vehicle to Fraser Island must get a vehicle access permit before arriving on the island. Permits are A$30.80 ($35.30) for one month or A$154 ($176) for 12 months.

* The writer was a guest of Kingfisher Bay Resort.

Ph: 0061 7 4120 3333

reservations@kingfisherbay.com

See Fraser Island

King Fisher Bay