Alice Springs in the Northern Territory, Australia. Photo / Nico Smit on Unsplash
Alice Springs in the Northern Territory, Australia. Photo / Nico Smit on Unsplash
Alice Springs’ population of about 25,000 makes it one of the biggest towns in Australia’s Northern Territory. Here’s what else you need to know about the town, writes Helen Van Berkel.
Alice Springs is 400km from Uluru
Although the desert town of Alice Springs is associated with Uluru and is indeed the nearest main centre to the great rock, it is about a four-hour drive through the desert between the two. We packed into a Toyota 4WD, the vehicle of choice for most Australians on this road, and sped east under a big blue through a landscape of red sand and scrubby green bushes. And when I say “sped”, I mean it: the Northern Territory has only just introduced a speed limit of 130km/h along the mostly straight Lasseter Highway between the two scenic spots and 150km/h seems acceptable still.
Most of the other vehicles on the road were towing stubby little caravans designed for off-roading on what locals call “the lap”. Australians think nothing of taking their kids out of school, packing everything into the car and setting off to circle their country.
Erldunda, a few clicks short of halfway, is an ideal spot for a burger or a sandwich. Little more than a petrol station and a roadhouse, the self-styled “resort” is home to a flock of emu keen for a feed from passers-by.
Alice Springs is 400km from Uluru. Photo / Photoholgic on Unsplash
Erldunda claims to be the centre of Australia by virtue of being in the middle of five other points that claim to be the centre of Australia. The trip also revealed that Uluru isn’t the only huge rock in the Australian Outback. Only 4m shorter than Uluru but 1km longer, Mt Connor is a flat-topped mesa on the privately owned Curtin Springs Cattle station. Although a different geological feature to Uluru, it has fooled enough tourists to earn the name “Fooluru”.
Desert Mob is a major showcase of Aboriginal art in Alice Springs.
Alice Springs’ Aboriginal name is Mparntwe
The original inhabitants of what became known as Alice Springs are the Arrente people, who are divided into Western, Central and Eastern Arrente. The area has more than 100 sacred aboriginal sites – more than anywhere else in the Northern Territory, some of which are closed to non-Aborigine visitors. However, there are plenty more to visit, including rock drawings in the N’Dhala Gorge and Aboriginal culture remains strong in the town.
Alice Springs’ Araluen Arts Centre is currently hosting Australia’s largest Aboriginal art exhibition, Desert Mob, which is on now until October 20. Hundreds of artists from 30 arts centres around the Northern Territory and Central Australia display their works, which are also for sale. As well as paintings, artists have created ceramics, Tjanpi weaving, sculpture, clothing and textiles. The exhibition is worth a visit even if you don’t want to buy anything.
The Tali Waru experience lets diners eat Australian cuisine while the sun sets over Uluru.
Alice Springs’ KFC tried to get a Michelin star
In 2019, the local KFC franchisee had a crack at getting a Michelin star for his restaurant, under the criteria that diners take a detour specifically to eat at the restaurant. Franchisee Sam Edelman told 7News some customers would travel as far 1000km to stock up on his chicken and take it back to their remote communities. Edelman went so far as travelling to Paris to push his case, but told media one of the reasons for the attempt was to highlight the fact that no Australian restaurants have a Michelin star – which is surprising given the quality of options on offer, including in the Northern Territory.
This remains the case. Michelin did not award Sam’s KFC a star.
However, dining on Australian cuisine as the sun sets over Uluru does need to be on every foodie’s bucket list. The Tali Waru experience has magic as its secret ingredient as the great rock fades into darkness and the Milky Way lights up the sky.
The Milky Way at night above Uluru in Australia. Photo / Getty Images
Alice Springs is ideal for hikes, swims and rail journeys
The MacDonnell Ranges rise about 600m above sea level and rise from the red sandy plains like stones tilted on their sides by giant feet. Walking trails snake through the sandstone and quartzite rock and rivers have carved spectacular gorges between the ranges, some of which offer welcoming swimming holes to escape from the desert heat.
The Ghan rail journey is a four-day nearly 3000km rail ride from Adelaide to Darwin that stops off in Alice Springs. It was named for the Afghan camel drivers who transported goods and wool in and out of the Outback in the late 1800s before freight started going by rail. And if you do encounter a freight train at a crossing in Alice Springs, you might as well go and park up and get a coffee. The trains are up to 1.8km long and trundle through Alice on the same Darwin-to-Adelaide or vice versa journey, carrying food, supplies and mining equipment or ore.
The Ghan rail journey is a four-day nearly 3000km rail ride from Adelaide to Darwin that stops off in Alice Springs. Photo / Supplied
Checklist
Alice Springs
GETTING THERE
Air NZ, Qantas and Jetstar all fly direct from Auckland to Sydney International Airport. Alice Springs is a three-and-a-half-hour flight from Sydney’s domestic terminal.
